Ambassadors of Budapest Tourism

A Cafe in the Sky - Scott

2011-02-21T03:08:00.000-08:00

Last Thursday (17th February) my little Hungarian short, A Cafe in the Sky, was screened at the delightfully independent Kino Cinema.

It wasn't a big crowd, but those who attended seemed to enjoy the screening. The final cut of the film works well I think, not outstaying its welcome by a second. I also gave a bit of a talk about some of my other film and TV projects, all inspired by this part of the world. My sincere thanks go to the management and team of Kino Cafe and Cinema who really went out of their way to make it an enjoyable occasion. Afterwards we relaxed in the cafe, a hip but cosy sort of place where you can enjoy a bracing coffee and a nourishing sandwich before or after a movie, and even take advantage of free wifi.

Scott

Screening at KINO cinema - by Christian

2011-02-21T02:39:00.000-08:00

Budapest has a lot of nice and cosy Retro Style Art cinemas and one of those is KINO at the Körút. And the even better news is, that this cinema has also a nice coffeeshop, which even without watching a movie is worth to visit. They have tasty cakes, an excellent white chocolate and great beers: Krombacher from Germany and San Miguel from Spain!

I should have had at least one beer before the private screening of a documentary by my Ambassador colleague Scott, who produced a documentary about the writer of the so called suicide song "Gloomy Sunday". We are all still alive!

It was a great experience to watch this very interesting documentary about the life and song of Rezső Seress, who being so loyal and dedicated to Hungary, never went to USA to collect his royalities from his famous song! In 1968 he committed suiced.

Private screening in a wonderful Budapest Retro cinema, another small aspect of our Budapest way of life!

Thanks Scott!

Christian

A Cafe in the Sky - Free screening

2011-02-02T01:29:00.000-08:00

A Cafe in the Sky - Free screening

To end the Budapest Tourism Ambassador program, at least for now, join us for a special screening of A Cafe in the Sky short film in English language. This is the film shot by our New Zealand Ambassador, Scott. Made on a shoestring budget but with a lot of passion, the 20 minute film nonetheless looks and sounds gorgeous, with the music of Gloomy Sunday and appearances by everyone from Zita Görög to the Rabbi of Budapest. The film has screened previously on the NZ Arts Channel and at the Academy Cinema of Auckland.

February 17, 2pm at Kino Cinema

Address: 1137 Budapest, Szent István krt 16.

(Tram 4-6, Jászai Mari tér stop)

www.akino.hu

Join us there!

After the short film Scott will present his current projects related to Budapest and afterwards you can have a chat and drink with the Ambassadors of Budapest Tourism at the Café of KINO.

Read Scott's blog posts here >>

La “Cultura del Cafè” a Budapest - Luca

2011-01-26T05:12:00.000-08:00

Read below in English

La “Cultura del Cafè” a Budapest

Uno degli aspetti più interessanti di Budapest e dei suoi abitanti è la loro “cultura del cafè”, cosa che ho avuto modo di conoscere durante la mia permanenza quì. Gli ungheresi sono delle persone molto socievoli, che amano ritrovarsi insieme ai loro amici in uno dei tanti bar in città per bere qualche birra insieme e fare quattro chiacchiere.

Secondo la mia esperienza i Cafè non sono solo dei luoghi di ritrovo, essi ricoprono una funzione fondamentale nella vita di tutti quelli che vivono a Budapest, infatti nei Cafè ci si va anche solo per rilassarsi davanti ad una tazza di thè. Non c’è da stupirsi se già alle cinque del pomeriggio i bar siano pieni, affollati da persone che chiacchierano, leggono il giornale o controllano la mail ( infatti la maggior parte dei bar è provvista di una connessione wi-fi).

D’inverno questo fenomeno è alimentato dalle basse temperature, quindi quando la morsa del freddo si fa troppo dura da sopportare non c’è niente di meglio che rifugiarsi in un cafè e bere qualcosa di caldo.

Il più antico e famoso è il Cafè Gerbeaud (Vörösmarty tér 7), che fa dell’eleganza e dell’atmosfera raffinata il suo marchio di fabbrica. Una delle tendenze che ha preso piede negli ultimi anni è quella di “personalizzare” il bar, questo porta alla conseguenza che ogni cafè ha un anima diversa.

Il più famoso è il Szimpla kert (Kazinczy utca 14) che si trova all’interno di un edificio fatiscente nel centro di Budapest, l’atmosfera un po’ “sgarrupata”, per dirla alla napoletana, fa parte del piano che gli architetti avevano quando hanno arredato questo bar, infatti troverete vecchie sedie e tavolini arrugginiti, automobili e vasche da bagno trasformate in divani e tante altre cose che vi faranno ricordare di questo posto.

Essendo il più famoso, il Szimpla è anche il più affollato, se volete un posto più tranquillo vi consiglio Csendes (Ferenczy István utca, 7), anche qui rimarrete sorpresi dall’arredamento vintage e po’ kitch.

Penso che trascorrere qualche ora in uno di questi bar sia uno dei must di Budapest, ma prima di entrarci preparatevi ad essere “affumicati” per bene, infatti in Ungheria è ancora permesso fumare nei luoghi chiusi, un Paradiso per noi amanti delle “bionde”…

Alla prossima, godetevi Budapest,

Luca

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Read here in English:

“Café culture” in Budapest

One of the most interesting aspects of Budapest and its inhabitants is their “café culture”, which is something that I got to know during my first stay here. Hungarians are very sociable people who like to come together with friends in one of the numerous coffee bars in the city to have a few beers and to chat with each other.

According to my experience, cafés are not simply meeting points but they play a fundamental role in the life of those living in Budapest. Actually, even if you are alone you may still go to a café just to relax in front of a cup of tea. It is not surprising at all that already at 5 pm coffee bars are full of people talking, reading newspapers or checking e-mails (most coffee bars offer Wi-Fi access).

During the winter months this habit is also fuelled by low temperatures. As a matter of fact, when it’s biting cold outside, there is nothing better than to find shelter in a café and drink something warm.

The oldest and most famous one is Café Gerbeaud (Vörösmarty tér 7) known for its elegance and sophisticated atmosphere. During the past few years there has been a tendency to “personalize” the coffee bars. The result is that now every café has a spirit of its own. The most famous outcome of this trend is Szimpla kert (Kazinczy utca 14) located in a crumbling building in downtown of Budapest. Its rather “shabby” atmosphere makes part of the plan that the architects had in mind at the time of furnishing the interior; in fact, you will find rusty tables and chairs, automobiles and bathtubs transformed into sofas, as well as many other things that will surely help you to remember this venue.

Besides being the most famous, Szimpla is also the most crowded place. If you want something more quiet you may wish to try Csendes (Ferenczy István utca 7), where visitors are surprised by old-fashioned and kitsch furniture.

I think that spending a few hours in one of these coffee bars is really a must when you visit Budapest. However, before entering you must be prepared for the “smoke cloud” as it is still permitted to smoke in confined spaces in Hungary, a real heaven for us, cigarette lovers...

That’s all for today.

Enjoy Budapest,

Luca

Program tips for Budapest - Palace of Arts, 2 February

2011-01-26T01:48:00.000-08:00

2 February 2011, 7.30 pm - 10.00 pm

Gustavo Dudamel and the Los Angeles Philharmonic
Bartók Béla National Concert Hall

John Adams: Slonimsky's Earbox
Bernstein: Symphony No. 1 - Jeremiah
Beethoven: Symphony No. 7 in A minor, op. 92

Conductor: Gustavo Dudamel

The Los Angeles Philharmonic is considered the most progressive symphonic orchestra in the United States. “We are focused on the future,” says the orchestra's Conductor Laureate Esa-Pekka Salonen, “not on reviving the glories of the past like so many others.” In keeping with this philosophy, the orchestra maintains close ties to contemporary artists and has been highly successful in attracting younger audiences. Equally, it is not above playing popular themes from television programmes and even video games. To prove the point, Herbie Hancock currently occupies the position of creative chair for jazz until 2012. Meanwhile, John Adams, remarkably popular for his highly accessible work in combining neo-romanticism with minimalism, was appointed resident composer two years ago. In 1996, he wrote Slonimsky’s Earbox, adapted from Le chant du rossignol by Igor Stravinsky, a former conductor of the Los Angeles Philharmonic himself. The fifteen-minute composition was created in memorial to Adams's Russian-American friend Nicolas Slonimsky. The author and composer wrote the Thesaurus of Scales and Melodic Patterns, a publication that had a profound influence on Adams. Slonimsky’s Earbox will be followed by Jeremiah's Symphony by Leonard Bernstein, considered by the New York Times to be the most talented and successful composer in American history. Written in 1942, the work is inspired by the Biblical story of Jeremiah's Lamentations. After the interval, the audience will hear the Beethoven symphony referred to by Richard Wagner as the “apotheosis of the dance”. In the conductor's pulpit, Gustavo Dudamel appears for the first time in Hungary. The young Venezuelan is currently in his second year as music director of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. His fairytale career has taken him from the Orquesta Sinfónica Simón Bolívar to one of America's finest orchestras. Amazingly, he only recently celebrated his 30th birthday.

Presented by the Palace of Arts

Prices: 5100, 7900, 9900, 12900, 14900 Ft

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3 February 2011, 7.30 pm - 10.00 pm

Gustavo Dudamel and the Los Angeles Philharmonic

Bartók Béla National Concert Hall

Mahler: Symphony No. 9

Conductor: Gustavo Dudamel

There are not many people in the history of music who have occupied the music director's chair at the tender age of 18. Still only 30, Gustavo Dudamel was appointed to the top position at the Orquesta Sinfónica Simón Bolívar, Venezuela's national youth orchestra, in 1999. And this was just the beginning of a meteoric career. In 2005, he conducted the Gothenburg Symphony Orchestra at the Proms in London as a late stand-in. The following month, he was named Principal Conductor. It was not long before he was appearing with some of the top names in classical music, such as the Boston and Chicago Symphony Orchestras, and gracing La Scala in Milan. He was also head-hunted by the Boston and Chicago Philharmonics. In 2007, Dudamel was named musical director to succeed Esa-Pekka Salonen at the Los Angeles from the 2009–2010 season. Here, the orchestra will play Gustav Mahler's final symphony to commemorate the hundredth anniversary of the conductor's death. It first performed the piece in 1969, conducted by John Barbirolli. Lasting the entire evening, the work is one of symphonic music's finest, defining the genre according to the atonal philosophies of Schönberg, Berg and Webern.

Presented by the Palace of Arts

Prices: 5100, 7900, 9900, 12900, 14900 Ft

More information: www.mupa.hu

Où boire un café à Budapest - Sylvie

2011-01-25T02:16:00.000-08:00

Read in English below

Prendre son thé, son café, son capuccino ou son chocolat chaud en dégustant des pâtisseries fait partie de l’art de vivre à Budapest au même titre que d’aller aux bains. Et on s’y adapte avec grand plaisir !

COTE BUDA

Chez Auguszt

Situé derrière le centre commercial de Mamuth (Fény utca 8) et près du marché, l’extérieur de cette maison ne paye pas de mine mais une fois la porte passée, notre regard est irrémédiablement attiré par les appétissants gâteaux de la pâtisserie. A l’étage supérieur se trouve un salon de thé très cosy. Plus de 130 ans de tradition pâtissière familiale s’y perpétue. Présent aussi côté Pest (augusztcukraszda.hu)

Szamos Marzipán

En hiver quand ma famille et moi-même revenons des collines enneigées de Normafa, on apprécie sa décoration chaleureuse avec ses petits salons qui font qu’on se sent comme « à la maison ». L’été on profite du grand jardin de cette belle bâtisse. La variété de gâteaux est grande et ils sont délicieux. On peut acheter des gâteaux ou confiseries à emporter.

Ruszwurm Cukraszda

Dans le quartier du Varnegyed un peu en retrait de l’église Mathias, se trouve la célèbre et imprononçable pâtisserie Ruszwurm Cukraszda, toute aussi réputée que le mythique salon de thé Gerbeaud mais disposant d’un cadre plus intime, moins chargé et surtout moins flamboyant, bref, propice à la flânerie intérieur. On se régale de francia krémes (cube de crème à la vanille et de crème fouettée nappé de café), de somloi galuska (génoise au rhum badigeonnée de confiture d’abricots et saupoudrée de cacao)…etc. Il être très agréable d’y venir dans le plus froid de l’hiver et se réchauffer à la chaleur du poêle de Saxe.

Le café Provence

Depuis que nous habitons côté Buda à proximité de la station de tram Huvosvolgy j’y vais régulièrement. Situé dans une petite maison c’est l’endroit parfait pour le petit-déjeuner, le déjeuner, la pause ou le dîner dans une ambiance conviviale sans prétention. J’y apprécie le petit-déjeuner du dimanche avec des bagels faits maison. Un espace avec des jouets est dédié aux enfants et pendant les beaux jours on profite du charmant jardin dans lequel les enfants peuvent courir. Les vendredis soir des petits groupes de jazz ou de salsa s’y produisent en toute simplicité.

COTE PEST

Café New York

Situé au rez-de-chaussée du luxueux hôtel Boscolo, ce lieu de rendez-vous littéraire mythique du début du siècle est aujourd’hui classé Monument historique. Dès que l’on y entre on est impressionné par le décor : merveilleuses fresques rococo, colonnes en stuc doré, voûtes néogothiques, colonnes torsadées, plafonds chargés d’arcs, moulures de peintures, velours rouge…sur plusieurs niveaux. C’est un lieu d’élégance incontournable. On peut y manger, soit dans la brasserie soit au restaurant plus chic mais très cher…(j’ai testé). On peut juste s’attabler pour goûter des pâtisseries ou juste boire un verre et ceci pour un coût raisonnable. Situé sur Erzsébet Korut on y accède très facilement par le tram 4-6.
Quand on se balade dans le quartier de l’Opéra les cafés sont nombreux et très variés.

La librairie Alexandra

Ce magnifique bâtiment a ré ouvert lorsque je suis arrivée à Budapest à l’été 2009. Au rez-de-chaussée se trouve une belle cave à vin, la librairie (quelques auteurs français). Le grand escalator central amène dans une pièce somptueusement décorée de fresques au plafond, d’immenses miroirs et aménagée en café où je peux vraiment me relaxer ou lire sur fond de smooth jazz. On peut assister très régulièrement à des démonstrations de tango en début de soirée à la fin desquelles le public est invité à apprendre les pas de cette danse. Il y règne alors une ambiance très sympathique.

Le café et restaurant Callas

A coté de l’Opéra National c’est l’endroit idéal pour grignoter ou patienter en attendant d’aller assister à un opéra. Il a été restauré en 2006 dans un style art déco. Les pâtisseries, les cocktails y sont bons. Les soirs de week end l’ambiance intime et tamisée s’accorde très bien avec les notes du pianiste.

Maison de la Sécession Hongroise (Magyar Szecesszió Háza)

Près de la place Szabadság, cette maison ouverte au public depuis 2007 représente l'un des joyaux cachés du style sécessionniste. On y trouve un petit musée sur 3 niveaux qui regroupe des meubles, des peintures et des sculptures de cette période. Dans cette atmosphère du début du XXème un espace café propose chaque matin des croissants frais et au long de la journée des pâtisseries faites maison et des cookies.

La petite française

Ce salon de thé à la française est dans un édifice classé monument historique, à 2 pas de Deak Ferenc ter, dans la rue Király où j’aime bien me promener pour ses nombreux magasins de décoration. Il s’est associé avec Arioso, une charmante boutique de décoration et c'est au milieu de ces jolis bibelots que l’on goûte une pâtisserie accompagnée d'un café ou d'un thé. A la belle saison on profite du jardin pour une halte rafraîchissante ou encore pour grignoter tarte sucrée, salée ou sandwich…français. On peut aussi y acheter des produits exclusivement français (fromages, sels, sucres, conserves de qualité, pâté, saucisson, vins, etc…)

Pour des « pause café » sans prétention mais néanmoins agréables je n’hésite pas à m’arrêter dans les chaines internationales anglaises « Costa Coffee », américaines « Starbuck Coffee » (West End et autres ouvertures en prévision) ou plus traditionnelles Jokenyer (surtout dans Buda mais vient juste d’ouvrir près du pont Margit).

Sylvie

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Read in English here:

COFFEE HOUSE CULTURE IN BUDAPEST

Sipping your tea, coffee, cappuccino or hot chocolate while trying the cakes is part of the art of living in Budapest, just like visiting the baths. You’ll take to it with great pleasure!

BUDA SIDE

Chez August
Located behind the Mammut shopping centre (Fény utca 8) and close to the market, the exterior of this place doesn’t seem like much, but once inside the door your eyes will be irresistibly drawn to the patisserie’s delicious-looking cakes. There is a very cosy tea salon on the upper floor. Over 130 years of family patisserie tradition are preserved here. There’s also a branch on the Pest side (augusztcukraszda.hu).

Szamos Marcipan
In the winter, when my family and I come back down from the snowy-covered hills of Normafa, you can appreciate the warm décor and its small rooms, which make you feel like you are at home. In summer you can avail of the lovely building’s big garden. There is a great variety of cakes and they are delicious. You can buy cakes and confectionary to take away.

Ruszwurm Cukraszda
In the Várnegyed or Castle District, a little way back from the Matyás Church, is the famous unpronounceable patisserie, Ruszwurm Cukraszda. It is equally revered as the mythical Gerbeaud tearooms but it has a more intimate, less busy and, above all, less flamboyant setting in which to stroll inside. You can treat yourself to francia krémes (a cube of vanilla cream and whipped cream layered with coffee) or somlói galuska (sponge cake sprinkled with rum and with apricot jam and cocoa powder), and so on. It is very nice to come here in the depths of winter and thaw out in the heat of the traditional stove.

Le café Provence
I’ve been coming here regularly ever since we started to live on the Buda side, close to the Huvosvolgy tram stop. It’s in a small house and it’s the perfect place for breakfast, lunch, a break or dinner in a lively and unpretentious atmosphere. I love their Sunday breakfast with the home-made bagels. An area with toys is especially for children and when it's fine you can use the charming garden, in which the children can run around. On Friday nights, small jazz or salsa bands simply turn up and play.

PEST SIDE

New York Café
Located on the ground floor of the luxurious Boscolo hotel, this mythical literary meeting-place from the turn of the century is today classed as a historical monument. As soon as you enter you are awed by the décor - marvellous rococo frescos, gilt stucco columns, neo-gothic vaulting, twisted columns, ceilings covered with arches, painted mouldings, red velour - on several floors. This is a place of undeniable elegance. You can eat here, whether in the brasserie or in the restaurant, which is more trendy but very expensive (I’ve tried it). You can just sit down to try the pastries or just drink a glass of something for a reasonable price. It’s located in Erzsébet Korut and easily reached by trams 4-6. There are numerous and all kinds of cafés there if you’re strolling round the Opera District.

Alexandra Bookstore
This magnificent building had just re-opened when I arrived in Budapest in summer 2009. There’s a lovely wine cellar on the ground floor as well as the bookstore (with several French authors). The big central escalator leads into a sumptuous hall, decorated with frescos on the ceiling and huge mirrors, converted into a café where I can really relax or read with smooth jazz in the background. You can very regularly take part in the tango demonstrations, where from the start to the end of the evening members of the public are invited to learn the dance steps. There’s still a really nice atmosphere.

Callas café and restaurant
Next to the National Opera House, this is the ideal place to nibble or spend time before going to an opera. It was restored in 2006 in an art deco style. Their cakes and cocktails are good. On Saturday and Sunday evenings the intimate and subdued atmosphere goes very well with the piano music.

Hungarian Art Nouveau House (Magyar Szecesszió Háza)
Close to Szabadság tér (Liberty Square), this building, open to the public since 2007, is one of the exuberant examples of the Art Nouveau style. There is a little museum over three floors which have assembled furniture, paintings and sculptures from that period. In that atmosphere of the beginning of the 20th century a coffee bar offers croissants every morning and home-made pastries and cookies all day.

La petite française
This French-style tea house is in a building listed as a historic monument, two steps from Déak Ferenc tér, in Király Street, where I love to walk because of the home interiors stores. It’s associated with Ariosa, a charming home interiors shop and it’s here, among all the pretty trinkets, that you can try some cake along with a cup of coffee or tea. In ice weather you can go to the garden for a refreshment stop or again to nibble on a sweet or savoury – French - tart or sandwich. You can also buy purely French products here (cheese, salt, sugar, quality preserves, pâté, sausage, wine, etc).

For unpretentious but nevertheless enjoyable « coffee stops » I don’t hesitate to go into the international chains; Costa Coffee from England or the American Starbucks Coffee(West End and other openings planned) or the more traditional Jokenyer (especially in Buda but just opened close to Margit Bridge).

Sylvie

Merlin theatre - Christian

2011-01-24T02:44:00.001-08:00

Those, who dont speak Hungarian, face a little problem in Budapest, they are not able to share the an important part of the great cultural life in Budapest, the theaters. There are a lot and Budapesters love to go to theaters. But there is one big chance for us, it is the Merlin Theater close to Déak Square, which offers English evenings on Mondays and Wednesday.

You can enjoy plays in English or Hungarian with English Subtitles. We had the pleasure to be invited by the Merlin Theater and could look behind the scenes and backstage (which later played a confusing "role" during my evening there). Then we were supposed to watch a play, called Pornography, which created some inner desires in myself and the desire to bring in a beer into the play. But that is strictly prohibited, but I could manage to bring it in.

The play was great, but during it I needed to go to the rest room, but that is also STRICTLY prohibited. I managed to go out, but it was so dark, that I ended in the backstage and crashed with the actors.. finally I managed to make it to the restroom, but then I was not allowed to go back to the audience. But I could enjoy the great cocktails (Happy Hour from 18:00 to 22:00 hrs) at the bar and then a concert in the bar area. And I was invited by Merlin for a free beer, for all the "complications" I needed to go through!

Merlin Theater is a great place for a very colorful evening: Cocktails, good food and beers, dramas on and off the stage and great concerts! Budapest at its best!

Christian

Kaffeehauskultur in Budapest - Christian

2011-01-24T02:03:00.000-08:00

Read below in English

Mit der türkischen Herrschaft hielt der Kaffee Einzug nach Ungarn, aber wirklich beliebt wurde
die so genannte ,,schwarze Suppe“ erst zwei Jahrhunderte später: Im 19. Jahrhundert tauchten
die ersten Pester Kaffeehäuser auf, die eine Zwischenlösung zwischen den alten und einfach
eingerichteten östlichen Cafés und den reichen und bürgerlich eingerichteten westlichen
Lokalen bildeten.

Nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg entstand in Budapest die schnelle Variante der gemütlichen
Kaffeehäuser: der so genannte ,,Eszpresszó“. Man hatte keine Zeit mehr für langes
Herumsitzen und Zeitunglesen. Stattdessen gingen die Kunden nur auf einen schnellen
Espresso vor und nach der Arbeit ins ,,Eszpresszó“. Das Ziel war Funktionalität. Die berühmte
Kaffeehauskultur erlebte während des Sozialismus einen regelrechten Niedergang.

Der Großteil der klassischen Kaffeehäuser wurde geschlossen oder umgestaltet.
Erst in den 90er Jahren des vergangenen Jahrhunderts – nach der politischen Wende – begann
wieder eine Blütezeit für die traditionellen Cafés. Die Stadt sehnte sich nach ihrer
Kaffeehauskultur zurück, alte Lokale wurden renoviert und wiedereröffnet, andere neu eröffnet.
Regelrechte Gastronomiemeilen entstanden in der Ráday utca und auf dem Liszt Ferenc tér.

Die berühmten Kaffeehäuser Centrál, New York und Astoria erscheinen in neuem Glanz.
Meiner Meinung nach kann man die alte Budapester Kaffeehauskultur noch im Cafe Central und im Cafe Gerbeaud spüren. Im Centrál ist der Service und die Qualität ausgezeichnet, im Gerbeaud sind mir zu viele Touristen, die Preise überhöht und die Bedienerinnen zeigen teilweise eine grantige Arroganz. Der launige Ober gehört ja mehr zur Wiener Kaffeehauskultur…Das New York hat für mich den Flair der Vergangenheit ziemlich verloren, es ist (fast) zu schön renoviert und gehört zu einem 5-Stern Hotel.

Im wunderschön renovierten Jugendstil Warenhaus Párizsi Áruház auf der Andrássy Straße befindet sich das Lotz Kaffeehaus mit wunderschönen Fresken, für mich eines der schönsten Kaffeehäuser der Welt
In den letzten Jahren öffneten einige Ketten mit dem Starbucks-Konzept und auch Starbucks selbst ist nun in Budapest vertreten. Da gibt es z.B. Coffee Heaven, California Coffee oder Coffee Company. Aber diese gehören mehr zur globalen Kaffeehauskultur also zur Budapester, allerdings schmeckt der Kaffee gut und vor allem die überwiegend jungen Besucher schaffen eine positive Atmosphäre.

Man findet auch viele neuere kleinere Kaffehäuser in Budapest, wo der Eigentümer selbst noch hinter der Kaffeemaschine steht, meine persönlichen Favoriten sind das Müterem Kávezó in der Tavaszmezö Straße, das Moods in der Weselenyi Straße bei der großen Synagoge oder das Café Pertu in der Dob Straße.

Aber wo man meiner Meinung nach am ehesten auf eine authentische Budapester Kaffeehauskultur treffen kann, das ist wohl die (alte) Budapester Cukrászda (Konditorei), die teilweise noch im Stile der 50er oder 60er vorzufinden ist, speziell auch in den kleineren Nebenstraßen der Bezirke 6-9 in Pest. Nicht immer ist der Kaffee ausgezeichnet, doch die Torten und leckeren Kuchen schmecken immer und die Preise sind teilweise unglaublich niedrig. Einfach in Pest herumspazieren und nach Retro-Schildern suchen, wo Cukrászda draufsteht und je älter die Einrichtung und die Angestellten, desto authentischer ist die Konditorei, z.B. in der Dób Utca zwischen Karoly Körut und Klauzal Tér befinden sich mindestens 3 solcher Konditoreien und Kaffehäuser.

In Buda kann ich besonders das Ruszwurm im Burgviertel empfehlen, wo es einen leckeren Tiroler Apfelstrudel gibt, den ich allerdings in Tirol noch nie gefunden habe, obwohl ich dort geboren bin. Und ein Phänomen ist das Daubner in Buda, eine Konditorei ohne Sitzplätze, wo allerdings immer eine riesige Schlange davorsteht und man dann den Kaffee und den Kuchen im Stehen genießt.

Und eine echte Budapester Institution ist Jégbufé am Ferenciek Tér. Seit 1952 kann man dort zu sehr günstige Preisen im Stehen Kaffee und herrliche Backwaren und Torten genießen, und dabei die Wartenden draußen an der Bushaltestelle beobachten, wo immer ein paar sehr hübsche Mädchen stehen, was uns dann eigentlich wieder an Budapest erinnert…

Christian

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Read here in English:

Café Culture in Budapest

Coffee arrived to Hungary at the time of the Turkish rule. However, the so-called “black soup” had not become really popular up until two centuries later. The first coffee houses started to appear in Budapest over the course of the 19th century, standing somewhere in the middle between old oriental cafés with their simple design and rich Western venues with their middle-class setting.

After World War 2, a “fast drink” variety of the cosy cafés was created; these were the so-called eszpresszós. People did not have the time anymore to sit around for hours, reading the paper; instead, visitors only dropped in for a quick espresso before and after their workdays. The main goal was functionality. The well-known Budapest café culture experienced a veritable breakdown during the Socialist era, with most traditional cafés closed down or redesigned.

A period of revival for traditional coffee houses had not started up until the ’90s of the last century, i.e. with the fall of the Iron Curtain. The city was eager to get back its old café culture; old venues were renovated and reopened, and some new ones established. Some real gastronomy miles were created in Ráday Street and on Liszt Ferenc Square. Central, New York, Astoria and other renowned cafés have reappeared in new glamour.

In my opinion, the old Budapest café culture is most distinctly present in Café Central and Café Gerbeaud. Central has high-quality service and offerings; however, Gerbeaud has, for my liking, too many tourists, too high prices and some grumpy and arrogant staff. Moody waiters should, as I see it, rather be part of the Vienna café culture... New York has lost most of its old charm; it is (nearly) too beautifully renovated and now part of a 5-star hotel. I believe that Lotz Café, located with its stunning frescos in Párizsi Áruház, a wonderfully renovated Art Nouveau department store on Andrássy Street, is one of the nicest cafés in the world.

Over the last few years, some franchise chains with the concept of Starbucks have been opened up; now Starbuck itself is also present in Budapest. In this category, you have among others Coffee Heaven, California Coffee or Coffee Company. These, however, are more part of the global café culture than the special one in Budapest. Still, they have good coffee and the mostly young clients create a really nice atmosphere.

You can also find lots of small, new coffee houses in Budapest, where the owners themselves stand behind the counter. My personal favourites are Műterem Kávezó in Tavaszmező Street, Moods in Wesselényi Street near the Great Synagogue and Café Pertu in Dob Street.

However, where you can find the café culture in Budapest in its most authentic form are most probably (old) cukrászdas (pastry shops), partly still designed in the style of the ’50s or ’60. Many of these are located in Pest, in the 6th to 9th Districts. The coffee is sometimes not that excellent, but the tarts and cookies are always brilliant and the prices are in some cases unbelievably favourable. Just walk around in Pest, looking for retro sings saying cukrászda. The older the furniture and the staff, the more authentic the pastry shop. In Dob Street between Károly Boulevard and Klauzál Square, at least three cafés and pastry shops of this kind can be found.

My special recommendation in Buda is Ruszwurm in the Castle District, where you can have a delicious “Tirol apple strudel”, which I have not yet found in the Tirol region, although I was born there.

Daubner in Buda also has a very good name—a pastry shop without any seats but always with a long queue in front of the building, where you can enjoy your coffee and cookies while standing.

Another genuine establishment of Budapest is Jégbüfé, located at Ferenciek Square. Since 1952, visitors have been able to enjoy coffee and some gorgeous pastries and tarts at reasonable prices while standing and watching people outside at the bus stop. There are always some really nice girls, reminding you again and again of the fact that you are in Budapest...

Christian

Café Culture in Budapest - Melanie

2011-01-21T00:58:00.000-08:00

Café Culture in Budapest

It would be worth coming to Budapest just to sample the café culture! It is equally pleasureable in summer basking in the sunshine outside or in winter enjoying the cosy atmosphere inside. It is a place for lingering, reflecting, people watching, reading, chatting, smoking (as there is no ban yet!). Coming alone is just as common and acceptable as coming with a friends or colleagues.

When I first came to Budapest as a visitor in 1990 the Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty Tér was THE place to go and a coffee and cake cost less than a EURO. It is a different story today, and although still stunning, the Gerbeaud is only really for tourists who want to spend double the amount for half the service quality. The same is true of the regenerated New York café which is gorgeous to look at but pricey by local standards and not very friendly. Some of my old favourites such the Müvész and the Lukács have recently been modernised and have taken on the glitzy characteristics of a wine bar rather than a café. The prices increased too and as a result, I no longer go there very much. Instead, I prefer to visit cafés like the Gerlóczy, which is tucked away behind Vaci Utca in a charming leafy square. It is reminiscent of a French-style café. Good lunchtime menu too. Centrál Café near Ferenciek Tere is also lovely. The service is friendly, the prices are low and the environment is beautiful. Auguszt café near to Astoria has a very special atmosphere and nice service. The little Ruszwurm café near the Matthias Church is a real gem if you can get in. It is very busy because of its proximity to the castle. I love the Ruszwurm Torta (pure chocolate heaven). If you see a Szamos café too (it is a chain), this will always be worth a visit, especially if you like marzipan and a quaint atmosphere. BUT my latest and most favourite café is the Alexandra Bookshop Café in the Párizsi Department Store on Andrássy Avenue. The ceiling frescos are incredible and almost detract from the deliciousness of the fruit tarts which are also outstanding!

For a more modern touch, I find the Duna Park café near Szent István Park a really relaxing place with a pianist at weekends. The cakes are amazing there! Déryné in Krisztina Tér in Buda has lovely décor and is a great place for brunch or afternoon tea. If you have children, then it is useful to have a play area. I really like Tranzit café just off Kosztolányi Dezső Tér as it used to be a bus station and has a bohemian arty atmosphere, but is also very child-friendly. The carrot cake is legendary. Having said that, unlike in England, all cafés tend to be child-friendly in Budapest as the Hungarians love children and don’t try to dissuade parents from bringing them to public places!

I could go on about the cafés in Budapest all day! One thing I would say is that there is really no need to go to the newer chain cafés like Costa, California or Coffee Company. I like these too, but in comparison they are over-priced with indifferent service and have no local characteristics. In the old days, it was impossible to get anything other than an espresso in a Hungarian café, but now the whole range is provided and you don’t need any elaborate explanations and gestures to get a Café Latte as I did when I arrived six years ago!

by Melanie Smith

Merlin theatre - Scott

2011-01-20T23:38:00.000-08:00

On wednesday January 19 an almost full compliment of we tourist ambassadors went to the theatre. The Merlin Theatre to be precise. As I understand it, this has only been in operation as a theatre for less than a dozen years, yet it already feels like an institution. Not least the English language Monday and Wednesday nights. We went to see Pornography. No, your eyes did not deceive you; only it's the name of a play by one Simon Stephens which actually doesn't have much to do with pornography, but more to do with the emotionally fractured and sexually confusing lives of a group of Londoners, at the time of the 7/7 bombing attacks. As something of an actor myself, I was impressed by the class acts of Mike Kelly and Matt Devere - we've come to expect no less from the founders of the Madhouse Theatre Company. But the whole cast delivered. Alexis Latham real and raw and versatile, there was a lovely comic turn by Sylvia Llewelyn, and a real bravura performance by Sophie Thompson. Of course, a good script helps. Go and see it if you haven't already.

Scott Alexander Young

Merlin Theatre - Melanie

2011-01-20T06:12:00.000-08:00

The Merlin theatre is a little gem for foreign residents and visitors alike. It is tucked away behind a main road so it is easy to miss, but if you go down the street next to the lovely Gerlóczy Café the entrance is easy to find. The Merlin has a really special atmosphere which could best be described as arty and bohemian. This is partly created by the quirky decor, wall paintings, lighting and furniture. It is also cosy and intimate and if you have lived here for a few years like me, you are bound to bump into a few old friends in there. Even if you are not seeing a play, the bar is worth a visit as it is relaxed and serves tasty, reasonably-priced food. The play we saw has been running for a while and is called Pornography but is actually about a terrorist attack in London.

For me it had a lot of emotional resonance as I moved from London one day before the attack and I remember that day in time so clearly.The acting was superb and everyone was impressed, moved, shocked, and enthralled all at the same time. After the play we were treated to a kind of story-telling concert where a charismatic Black singer told a tale to the backdrop of jazz music. It was quite a unique experience and fairly unusual for Budapest. At the same time we enjoyed beers and tapas. Overall, this theatre is perfect for anyone whose Hungarian is not good enough to go to Hungarian theatres, for Hungarians who wants to see plays in English, and for anyone who enjoys an intimate arts venue with a great atmosphere.

by Melanie Smith

See Merlin's webpage here

Tourist Information Duel on Friday 21 January 2011

2011-01-19T18:14:00.000-08:00

Be part of a special duel at the Tourinform-office, Sütő utca (at Deák tér) this Friday! The duel marks the beginning of a competition where Budapest Tourist Ambassadors challenge touristic experts in the Sütő u. office of the Budapest Tourism Office (BTO)!

The tourists themselves will vote on who gives better information, if the service provided in the office was of high standard. With this action the Tourism Office of Budapest seeks to call experts’ attention to the importance of personal information-giving in tourism and the necessity of the constant control of the services. Besides it is a good opportunity for tourists to meet the new ambassadors of the Budapest Tourism Office and to get to know their personal recommendations for their stay in Budapest.

Following the clash the ambassadors will write on the Budapest ambassador blog about their experiences and support the work of the capital’s tourist organization with concrete recommendations.

Join us on Friday and check out what really goes on behind the scenes!

The competitors of the 2nd round:

Scott Alexander Young from New-Zealand - Ambassador of Budapest Tourism – Author/Scriptwriter/Travel Writer/Actor/Voice Actor

Vilma Magyar from Budapest – touristic expert, owsner of the budapestUNDERGUIDE company organising personalized walking tours in Budapest

Cast your vote – who gives better information?
Voting in the upper right corner

Where: V. Sütő u. 2 – Tourinform office at Deák tér

When: 21 January 2011. 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Come and ask them questions in person!

See the pictures of the first round here!

Read Vilma's post on the event here

Coffee House Culture - Scott

2011-01-19T06:46:00.000-08:00

Coffee House Culture in Budapest

It’s freezing cold outside and snowing, you practically burst through the door to get inside, where it’s toasty warm and all is congenial; you shake off the cold and take off jackets and hats, gloves and scarves. And there, waiting, before you, is the friend you’ve come to see - they got there a few minutes earlier. You kiss on both cheeks and shake hands too, then slide into opulent chairs or deep, welcoming booths. Does friendship ever seem more vital than when you meet in a 100 year old café in the heart of winter? More like the ‘staff of life’? I think not. Winter in Budapest? I wouldn’t miss it for the world.

Three classic ‘Grand Old Dames’ of Budapest café society are Café Gerbeaud, Café Centrál and the New York Café. And they each have a history which tells you something about the life of the city over the last 100 or so years. The oldest is Gerbeaud, which opened in 1858 and soon began to cultivate a reputation for its cream cakes and pastries – the only thing richer than the chandeliers which drip from the ceiling. It was one of the few institutions of its kind to stay open during the dreary and oppressive days of communism. Café Centrál meanwhile first opened its doors in 1887, and was a centre for the city’s intellectual life. The well known Hungarian journal Nyugat (West) got its start at a table in this café. Centrál was closed between between 1949 and 1999, when it reopened and fast became this writer’s favourite among the café classics. Last but not least, when the New York Insurance company built premises in Budapest’s 6^th district back in 1894, they installed a café on the ground floor. Hence, the New York Café. It was nationalised during the socialist era, and at one point was even used as a sporting goods store. Completely restored under the new ownership of a luxury hotel group, that seems hard to believe now. Remember to look up though, because cherubs frolic on painted ceilings above as you sip your coffee.

But I can’t leave out Liszt Ferenc tér, and my particular favourite among the strip of cafés and bars there, which is Café Vian. Well, I’ve been eating Croque Monsieur sandwiches off-and-on here for years. It may not have the long traditions of the classics, but sometimes it’s nice to take part in creating a tradition. Vian is a long room with a comfortable ambience and a nice place for people watching, every season of the year.

Take it from me, expats do like to moan, and you’ll sometimes hear them grumble about how service can occasionally be slow in such places. I suppose so, compared to the USA anyway. On the other hand, you’re not pressured to keep ordering something every five minutes. You can sit with a coffee and a friend – or alone with a book – for hours without being pressured to consume more. And long may things stay that way. Of course, if you are meeting with someone in any of the cafés mentioned, remember there’s something you should bring to the table. Good conversation!

by Scott Alexander Young

Budapest d’inverno - Luca

2011-01-17T05:23:00.000-08:00

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Venni per la prima volta a Budapest tre anni fa, ed era inverno. Rimasi incantato dall’atmosfera che che mi accolse, ho imparato con il passare del tempo che questa città, come un camaleonte, cambia con il susseguirsi delle stagioni, adattandosi di volta in volta per offrire il meglio di se.

A dir la verità il primo impatto fu un po’ traumatico, per un “uomo del sud”come me adattarsi al clima non fu proprio facile, era freddo, un freddo pungente. Quindi il primo consiglio che mi sento di dare a coloro che si accingono a venire a Budapest è di portare vestiti caldi ed essere pronti ad un clima che tocca gli zero gradi già a novembre per arrivare fino a -15 a gennaio. Ma non preoccupatevi, il freddo non vi impedirà di avere una esperienza indimenticabile in città, anzi ci sono una serie di attività che “sfruttano” questo tipo di clima.

Per cominciare in bellezza c’è il mercatino natalizio che si trova a Vörösmarty tèr, si arriva con la metro gialla(c’è una fermata direttamente nella piazza) oppure da Deak tèr ci si impiega qualche minuto a piedi. L’atmosfera del mercato è a dir poco coinvolgente, una delle sue peculiarità principali è il fatto che solo gli artigiani locali sono autorizzati ad esporre le loro creazioni nelle bancarelle che si trovano nella piazza, quindi non troverete niente di kitch “made in china”. Mentre camminate per le stradine del mercato probabilmente verrete attirati da una serie di odori provenienti dai vari stand gastronomici, vi consiglio di provare il vin brulè ,vi aiuterà a combattere il freddo e il retrogusto di cannella è ancora uno dei miei sapori preferiti, questo è sicuramente uno dei must di Budapest d’inverno.

Ci sono una serie di eventi che caratterizzano il periodo natalizio in città. Gli amanti dello sport, quelli invernali nello specifico, non possono non andare a pattinare sul ghiaccio nella pista che si trova in cima al centro commerciale WestEnd( fermata Nepliget palyaudvar-metro blu), è possibile affittare l’attrezzatura lì stesso. La mia pista preferita si trova nel parco a Varosliget (fermata Hosok ter- metro gialla) ed è una delle più grandi d’Europa, purtroppo quest’anno sarà chiusa per lavori ma ricordatelo per la prossima volta, vi assicuro che pattinare insieme centinaia di persone con sullo sfondo il Castello Vajdahunyad, il mio preferito, è un esperienza che ricorderò per sempre.

Tipico d’inverno è salire sulla collina di Normafa (bus n.90 dalla fermata Moskva ter-metro rossa) anche solo per una passeggiata e un bicchiere di vino, ma il vero divertimento comincia con le prime nevicate, a me piace andare con uno slittino e lanciarmi a tutta velocità giù dalla collina.

Il 31 dicembre è il giorno della corse, nel pomeriggio è ormai una tradizione andare all’ippodromo che si trova a Pillangò utca (fermata metro rossa). L’anno scorso ci ritrovammo con degli amici e fu molto divertente, tra innumerevoli brindisi e qualche puntata sui cavalli dai nomi più improbabili salutammo l’anno che finiva.

Un'altra attività che mi ha aiutato a combattere il freddo ed al tempo stesso godermi la mia permanenza a Budapest è stato andare alle terme, luoghi per cui Budapest, a ragione, è famosa in tutto il mondo. Le mie preferite sono sicuramente le terme Széchenyi (fermata Széchenyi fürdö-metro gialla), infatti per me non c’è niente di meglio che rilassarmi per ore nelle acque che arrivano fino a 38°, e lo stesso possono dirvi le moltissime persone che le frequentano, tipico è per gli abitanti di Budapest trascorrervi l’intera giornata, quando vidi dei simpatici vecchietti giocare delle interminabili partite a scacchi distesi comodamente nelle piscine pensai “questa si che è vita”.

In questo periodo a volte non desidero altro che una fumante cioccolata calda che mi aiuti a combattere la morsa del freddo, per provare la migliore di Budapest vado al Aztèk Choxolat (Károly krt. 22 qualche minuto da Deak ter), tutto di questo posto mi ricorda il film “Chocolat”, dall’ambiente caldo e accogliente fino alle decine e decine di tipi di cioccolate disponibili nel loro menù.

Quando ho qualche ora a disposizione scappo dal caos cittadino e mi rifugio a Szentendre, una cittadina a meno di mezz’ora del centro, arrivarci è molto facile, dalla fermata Battyani ter-metro rossa prendete il treno locale HEV. Mi piace camminare per le stradine del centro storico e curiosare nei tanti negozi d’artigianato. Ma è soprattutto quando è imbiancata dalla neve che Szentendre si trasforma in uno di quei paesaggi da favola, passeggiando lungo la riva del Danubio ne coglierete lo spirito romantico e un po’ nostalgico che è l’essenza di questa cittadina.

Budapest è una città molto stimolante anche dal punto di vista artistico, quest’inverno ci sono tante mostre che vale la pena di visitare, io ho trovato molto interessanti quella del Szepmuveszeti, il museo delle Belle Arti, (fermata Hosok ter-metro gialla) in cui vengono esposti dei capolavori di Klimt e Botero, e la mostra del fotografo Munkàcsi al LUMU(fermata Lagymanos hid- Tram n.2).

Da parte mia è tutto per adesso,

Godetevi Budapest,

Luca

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Budapest in winter

It was in winter when I arrived at Budapest for the first time three years ago. I was enchanted by the welcoming atmosphere of the place, and with the passing of time I learnt that this city – just like a chameleon – changes with every season, adapting itself every time to offer its best.

As a matter of fact, the first impact was a bit traumatic, because adapting to the climate was not easy for a “southern man” like me, as the weather was cold, bitter cold. Therefore the first advice that I must give to those who plan to travel to Budapest is to bring warm clothes and to prepare for a temperature that falls to zero already in November and that may sink to as low as minus 15 centigrade in January. But do not worry: the cold weather will not inhibit you from having an unforgettable time in the city; what is more, there are lots of activities that “benefit” from this kind of climate.

A real nice start is the Christmas fair at Vörösmarty tér that is accessible by underground on the yellow line (there is a stop right at Vörösmarty tér) or with a few minutes’ walk from Deák tér. To say the least, the atmosphere is captivating; one of the main peculiarities of the fair is that only local artisans are allowed to expose their own products on the stalls placed all over the square, which means that you will not find here any kitsch “made in China”. During your walk along the little streets of the fair you will most probably be attracted by a series of pleasant smells arriving from the various food stands; I suggest that you should taste mulled wine because it will help you withstand the cold – besides, the aftertaste of cinnamon is one of my favourite flavours – and it is definitely a must if you happen to visit Budapest in winter.

There is a series of events that typically go along with the Christmas period in the city. Sport (mainly winter sport) lovers cannot miss a fine ice-skating on the ice rink on top of WestEnd City Center (Nyugati pályaudvar underground station on the blue line), where they can even rent the necessary equipment. My favourite ice rink is in the City Park or Városliget (Hősök tere underground station on the yellow line), which is one of the biggest of its kind in Europe; unfortunately, this year it is closed for renovation works but do not forget to visit it next time because ice-skating together with hundreds of people, just a few feet from Vajdahunyad Castle (my favourite), is something that you will never forget.

A typical thing in winter is to go up to Normafa (bus no. 90 from Moszkva tér underground station on the red line) to take a walk and have a glass of wine, even if you do it alone, although the real fun starts with the arrival of the first snow. I love going up there with a sledge and plunge down at full speed from the hill.

December 31st is a day for horse-racing; in the afternoon it is already a tradition to go to the race-track (Pillangó utca underground station on the red line). Last year we were there with friends and had a wonderful time saying good-bye to the old year while giving countless toasts and placing bets on horses of the most improbable names.

Another activity that helped me fight the cold weather and still enjoy my stay in Budapest was to go to the spas, for which Budapest is rightly renowned all over the world. My favourite one is definitely Széchenyi Bath (Széchenyi fürdő underground station on the yellow line), because for me the best thing in the world to relax for long hours in fine spa water (with temperatures up to 38°C); this could be confirmed also by the many people who regularly go to spas as it is typical for the inhabitants of Budapest to spend an entire day there; when I watched the nice old gentlemen stretching out comfortably in the water and playing their endless games of chess, I thought to myself “that’s what life is about”.

Sometimes in this period all I wish is a steaming cup of hot chocolate to help me withstand the biting cold; to get the best one in Budapest I go to Azték Choxolat (Károly krt. 22, a few minutes from Deák tér); the entire place reminds me of the movie “Chocolate” with its warm and welcoming interior and the dozens of different types of chocolate on the menu.

When I have a few hours of free time, I escape from the urban chaos and go to find some peace in Szentendre, a nice little town at less then 30 minutes from the city center; going there is very easy, just take the suburban train (HÉV) from Batthyány tér (underground station on the red line). I love walking along the little streets in the old town center and browsing in the numerous artisan shops. However, it is mostly with the arrival of snow when Szentendre transforms into a fabulous landscape; strolling along the Danube bank you can get a glimpse of the romantic and nostalgic atmosphere of the place, which is the essence of this town.

Budapest is a very stimulating city also in artistic terms; there are lots of exhibitions this winter that are worth visiting, including some at the Museum of Fine Arts (Hősök tere underground station on the yellow line) where the masterpieces of Klimt and Botero will be on display and the exhibition of photographer Munkácsi at the Ludwig Museum (Lágymányosi híd stop on the line of tram no. 2).

That’s all from me now.

Enjoy Budapest,

Luca

Los diez mandamientos del frío - Carlos

2011-01-13T06:28:00.000-08:00

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LOS DIEZ MANDAMIENTOS DEL FRÍO

A veces llega el invierno con el eco sordo de una mala noticia. No estamos preparados, es demasiado pronto, nos decimos algo aturdidos con las huellas de los días calurosos todavía recientes en nuestra memoria. Pero los ciclos inexorables del tiempo nos traen, lo queramos o no, el aliento de un cambio que siempre es innovador y excitante. Un nuevo periodo, que como todo lo nuevo está cargado de promesas. Además Budapest es una ciudad que tiene el poderoso atractivo de las metamorfosis, que alberga enigmáticas semillas para transformarse en verano, para vestirse de primavera o disfrazarse de otoño y, por qué no, para cubrirse con el manto blanco del invierno. Y así, una vez instalados en un nuevo paisaje de luz y de colores transparentes, en una atmósfera alternativa de aire frío, vivificador, que nos purifica del letargo, estamos preparados para disfrutar de los atractivos que nos ofrece la ciudad en invierno —si prestamos la atención suficiente— y reinventar un año más esta época del año.

Como en un modesto breviario, os insinúo diez cosas que recuerdo haber hecho, que hago siempre o que tengo la intención de hacer, cuando llegan los meses de invierno.

1
No voy a negarlo: me gusta el frío. Es revitalizante y me activa el cuerpo y la mente, empujándolos al movimiento, que es el auténtico motor de nuestro día a día. Bien abrigado, si hace sol —cuando está presente en una mañana de temperaturas bajas es una auténtica delicia— paseo por Normafa, que alberga un paisaje casi de bosque encantado sin salir de la ciudad, o por la Isla Margarita, en la que puedes imaginar que estás en cualquier otro lugar, con mi cámara fotográfica, tratando de recoger con cuidado todos los detalles de un entorno helado o nevado, con su infinita gama de grises. Son momentos para la introspección y el deleite estético, que regateo del trajín de la vida cotidiana.

2
La primera vez que estuve en los baños termales de Széchenyi, en el vientre seductor de una piscina de agua caliente al aire libre, contemplando la nieve que me rodeaba, se me presentó con claridad la sensación de que un invierno no es siempre como nos lo imaginamos. Son momentos para la pura sensualidad del agua que nos libera de las tensiones acumuladas y nos devuelve, al menos por unos instantes, la consciencia de nuestro cuerpo.

3
Otro tipo de actividad más festiva, también en el entorno de los baños termales —esta vez en los Rudas— es pasar una noche de fiesta con el Cinetrip, un espectáculo envolvente de luz y música en directo que, combinado con la posibilidad de estar en las piscinas se convierte en una sugestiva alternativa a la diversión monótona de una discoteca o sala de fiestas común. Tomarse una copa con algunos amigos, tal vez animarse a bailar. Un momento desinhibido para la fiesta.

4
El aire frío me da siempre un apetito voraz que cumple con las condiciones vitalistas necesarias para salir a la calle, ya de noche, especialmente después de una jornada de trabajo, en busca de un buen restaurante en la calle Pozsonyi, donde sirven un muslo de oca con col lombarda que trato de degustar siempre en compañía, como excelente excusa para tener una charla agradable. Momentos para los placeres culinarios.

5
Creo que soy incapaz de patinar, mi torpeza seguro que pondría en peligro a los numerosos patinadores que animan las pistas durante los fines de semana, pero cuando los he visto siempre me han provocado el deseo de estar dentro de esos patines y deslizarme con rapidez, mientras me río con ellos. Parejas, familias, haciendo piruetas en compañía. Son momentos para hacer deporte de una forma lúdica.

6
Aunque no celebro especialmente la Navidad, casi es una costumbre visitar cada año el mercado de la plaza Vörösmarty justo antes de Nochebuena, dar una vuelta por entre los puestos que venden todo tipo de cosas para regalar, escuchando a ratos música tradicional en directo, entre aromas dulces y especiados que van y vienen, calentándome el cuerpo con un tazón de vino caliente.

7
Una vez al mes, voy a una cata de vinos en una Asociación Vinícola (Bortársaság), a las puertas del distrito del Castillo. Descubrir la riqueza y variedad de los vinos y licores húngaros que no sólo deleitan el paladar, sino que también nos incitan a un recorrido imaginario por las distintas regiones del país recordándonos que no hay mejor guía por cualquier geografía del mundo que un buen vino. Después, salir a la calle y recibir el aire fresco y adentrarse tal vez por las calles burguesas que casi nos recuerdan un pueblecito de cuento de hadas. Es un momento para la magia de coleccionar sensaciones.

8
Entrar en la sala de conciertos de la Academia de Música con la memoria del frío y disfrutar de la música que nunca sonará igual en nuestros oídos. Y luego, volvernos con ella a casa, dejando huellas en la nieve mientras todavía se alborotan acordes, arpegios y melodías en nuestra mente. Son momentos para recordar que existen sonidos con los que iluminar también momentos del invierno.

9
O buscar refugio en las infinitas formas de contar la realidad que tiene el teatro y la danza, como hace, por ejemplo, con una altísima profesionalidad el equipo del Teatro Katona József, mostrándonos otras formas de vida, sugiriéndonos respuestas a algunas de las preguntas que nos hacemos de vez en cuando. Son momentos para el descubrimiento y la revelación.

10
Buscar algo nuevo, lo nunca hecho, el lugar todavía no visitado. Escapar de la rutina, de la repetición. Negarse a que ya no haya nada desconocido que pueda ofrecerme la ciudad en invierno. Desplegar todas las posibles variaciones de aquello que conozco bien y hacer, siempre que sea posible, que este último invierno no se parezca a ninguno de los anteriores.

Carlos Rodero

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THE COLD’S TEN COMMANDMENTS

Winter sometimes comes reverberating just as bad news does. We are not ready, is too soon, and it shakes all recent memories of warmer days from our heads. Yet the unyielding cycles of time bring, whether we like it or not, an exciting and innovative breeze of change. A new period which, like all new things, is loaded with promise. Budapest is a city that has the powerful appeal of metamorphosis, lodging enigmatic seeds to transform into summer, to dress up in the spring or disguise itself in the autumn and - why not - cover itself up with the white snow mantle of winter. And then, once installed in a new landscape of lights and transparent colours, in an alternative atmosphere of cold and invigorating air, purifying us from lethargy, we find ourselves ready to enjoy the attractions the city has to offer during the winter –if we pay enough attention- and reinvent one more year during this season. In the form of a modest compendium, I suggest ten things I remember I have done, always do or that I have all intentions of doing when the winter months arrive.

1
I will not deny it: I love the cold. It is revitalising and activates my body and mind, pushing both into movement, which is our real engine day by day. Well wrapped up, if it’s sunny –an authentic delight when the sun is out during low temperature mornings- I go for a walk at Normafa, where the landscape of enchanted woods is at hand without having to leave the city, or on Margaret Island, where you can let your imagination run wild and pretend you are in a different place, and with my camera I try to gather carefully all the details of a snowy or frozen environment full of infinite shades of greys. These are moments for introspection and aesthetic enjoyment, cut off from the comings and goings of daily life.

2
The first time I went to the Széchenyi thermal baths, being in the seductive womb of a warm water outdoor pool, contemplating the surrounding snow, it was clear to me that the perception of winter we have is not always as we picture it in our minds. Those are moments to allow the purity and sensuality of the water to release accumulated tensions and give us back, at least for a few instants, the consciousness of our bodies.

3
Another more festive activity, also related to the thermal baths –this time in the Rudas baths- is to spend a night partying with Cinetrip, a show full of lights and music that, combined with possibility of swimming in the pools, turns out to be a suggestive alternative to the monotonous fun of a discotheque or a common party. Having a drink with some friends, maybe join in the dancing. An uninhibited time for partying.

4
Cold wind always gives me a voracious appetite, presenting the vital conditions for going out into the streets at night, especially after a long working day, in search of a good restaurant in Pozsonyi Street. There they serve goose leg with red cabbage, which I always try to enjoy in company, as an excellent excuse for a pleasant chat. Moments for culinary pleasures.

5 I
I believe I’m incapable of skating; my clumsiness surely would put in risk the numerous skaters that join the rinks during the weekends, although when I’ve seen them I’ve felt the desire to be in those skates and glide quickly, as I laugh with them. Couples and families, performing pirouettes together. Moments to practice a sport as recreation.

6
Although I do not especially celebrate Christmas, it is almost a yearly habit to visit the Vörösmarty Square market, right before Christmas Eve, and walk around stalls selling all kinds of presents, listening to live traditional music, among sweet and spicy aromas that come and go, warming up with a mug of mulled wine.

7
Once a month, I attend a wine tasting at a Wine Association, by the gates of the Castle District. Discovering the richness and variety of Hungarian wines and spirits is not just a delight to the palate, but also invites you on an imaginary tour of the country’s different regions, reminding us that there is no better guide to any geography in the world than a good wine. Afterwards, move out into the old city streets and take in the fresh air, wandering through them as if in a little fairy tale town. A moment for the magic of collecting sensations.

8
Enter the concert hall of the Music Academy with fresh memories of the cold and enjoy music that will never sound the same to our ears. And then, returning home with it, leaving footprints in the snow while in our memory are chords, arpeggios and melodies in full flood. Moments when we remember that there are sounds with which we can illuminate winter moments too.

9
Or finding shelter within the infinite forms of talking about reality that theatre and dance have, as is done, for example, with the highest professionalism by the team of the Katona József Theatre, showing us other forms of life and suggesting answers to some of the questions that we ask ourselves from time to time. Moments for discovery and revelation.

10
Find something new that’s never been done, the place never visited before. Escape from routine, from repetition. Deny that there is nothing else that the city in winter has to offer. Spread out all the possible variations of that which I know well and, as long as possible, make this last winter different from any of the previous ones.

Carlos Rodero

TOP 10 Winter Attractions in Budapest - Sylvie

2011-01-13T05:46:00.000-08:00

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Les bains en hiver
Contrairement à ce que pensent les français on apprécie encore plus les bains extérieurs quand il est froid. Ma famille et moi même aimons l’atmosphère conviviale et familiale des bains Széchenyi avec sa magnifique cour néobaroque toute de jaune vêtue : jets d’eau, massages à bulles, fontaines qui massent le dos, un circuit aquatique à contre courant (mon fils de 6 ans adore !). Une ambiance presque surnaturelle quand en plein hiver on se baigne dans une eau à 38 degrés entouré de neige. Tout n’est que vapeur... d’où émergent les têtes des joueurs d’échec. On y reste bien 2 heures et c’est encore plus magique quand il fait nuit ! Pour plus d’intimité on file en famille dans les petits bains intérieurs des bains Lukas parfois très chauds et riches en en souffre, pour leur ambiance tamisée et feutrée.

L’Opéra National
Sans pour autant être « addict » d’opéra il faut bien reconnaitre qu’assister à des concerts, à des opéras et à des ballets dans le cadre élégant de l’Opéra national est un moment inoubliable (le bonus : l’entracte avec une coupe de champagne sur la terrasse et vue sur la belle avenue Andrassy). La programmation y est très riche et on trouve des places assez facilement. Mais le « clou » de fin d’année est de participer au Gala et bal de la Saint-Sylvestre (j’ai testé…). Après les 45min d’opéra nous avons mangé dans une salle magnifique puis dansé toute la nuit (sur la scène !).

Le Marché de Noel
En décembre mes pas me ramènent régulièrement au Marché de Noel sur la ravissante place Vorosmarty. En journée je déambule aux milieux des charmants chalets en bois et achète volontiers des petits cadeaux car les artisans sont vraiment de qualité. J’en profite pour donner rendez-vous à des amies et on s’attable pour grignoter des plats typiques. Le soir au milieu des lumières de Noel et des odeurs appétissantes on va se réchauffer entre amis ou en famille en buvant du vin chaud dans une ambiance musicale. Quand il fait froid c’est encore meilleur !

Les pâtisseries
Quoi de meilleur quand il fait froid que de déguster de bons gâteaux dans un lieu cosy. Un détour s’impose chez Gerbeaud le pâtissier le plus célèbre de Budapest. Résidant côté Buda je m’arrête volontiers en semaine chez Auguste, moins touristique mais plus intime. La patronne très sympathique parle français et fait des macarons et un gâteau « esterhazy » délicieux.

Balades sous la neige
Les collines de Normafa sont l’endroit idéal pour se promener en famille : descente en luge, ski de fond, balades à pied…et le point culminant (527m) offre une vue panoramique sur la ville. On peut y accéder en voiture ou par le chemin de fer à crémaillère. Sur la route du retour on apprécie le confort de la pâtisserie Szamos Marcipan pour déguster de très bons massepains et gâteaux autour d’un thé ou d’un chocolat chaud.

Les patinoires
En hiver à proximité de la Gare de l’Ouest de Budapest (Nyugati ) l’immense centre commercial West End transforme la terrasse de son toit en une patinoire familiale ouverte de 8h à 22h (ambiance musicale et locations de patins). On y accède très facilement par métro et par tram (4-6) et on en profite aussi pour se restaurer ou faire son shopping à West End.

Noel au château Nagytétény
Toute une série de programmes de l’Avent et de Noël est organisée chaque année dans l’un des palais baroques les plus beaux de Hongrie. 30 sapins de Noël sont magnifiquement décorés par des artistes contemporains. On y goûte en famille des produits régionaux (miel, tisane, confiture, châtaignes rôties, vin chaud et strudels) et les weekends sont riches en concerts et festivités pour les enfants. C’est aussi l’occasion d’y d’acheter de belles décorations d'arbres de Noël. (www.nagytetenyi.hu)

Mangalica Fesztivál du 4 au 6 février à Varosliget
C’est l’occasion de découvrir une tradition typiquement hongroise. Peu d’étrangers savent que le mangalica est une race de cochon hongrois qui se distingue par son manteau riche et bouclé, blond, noir ou rouge. Son autre particularité est que sa viande est plus savoureuse que le cochon classique. Sans aucun doute je retournerai cette année à ce festival situé dans le magnifique cadre du Château Vajdahunyad où on déguste de la saucisse farcie ou grillée, des plats à base de mangalinca préparés sous nos yeux, du vin chaud, des gâteaux et des produits artisanaux (confitures, miel, palinka…). Pour digérer j’ irai ensuite me relaxer dans les bains Széchenyi à 5 minutes à pied. (mangalicafesztival.hu)

Shopping dans les centres commerciaux
Du lundi au dimanche, quelque soit le temps, seul ou en famille on peut passer sa journée dans les centres commerciaux. Rien à voir avec ceux que l’on voit en France. Une fois la voiture garée au parking souterrain on est prêt à arpenter les différents niveaux. Les allées aérées et lumineuses s’entrecroisent au milieu des décorations de saison. On y trouve tout : bowling, patinoire, boutiques, sport, électronique, aires de jeux surveillée pour enfants, cinémas, restaurants…Difficile d’en partir les mains vides. Mamuth, Allée et Mom Park côté Buda, West End et Arena Plaza côté Pest. Corvin vient d’ouvrir mais je n’ai pas encore eu le temps d’y aller. Ils sont tous accessibles en transport en commun.

Sylvie Martin

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TOP 10 Winter Attractions in Budapest

The baths in winter
Contrary to what the French believe, one appreciates outdoor baths even more when it’s cold. My family and I love the convivial family atmosphere of the Széchenyi Baths, with its magnificent neo-baroque courtyard, all clad in yellow: water jets, bubble massages, fountains to massage your back, a water circuit with a counter-current (my six-year-old son loves it!). There is an almost supernatural feeling when you’re bathing in the open air, in water that’s 38 degrees, surrounded by snow. It’s not all steam – from it emerge the heads of chess players. You can relax nicely here for two hours and it’s even more magical when it’s night-time! For something more intimate you can file into the indoor Lukas Baths as a family, which are very hot and ornate and suffer there in the subdued and cosy atmosphere.

The National Opera
Without getting to be an opera « addict », it’s well worth appreciating that attending the concerts, operas or ballets in the elegant setting of the National Opera makes for unforgettable moments (as a bonus, the interval with a glass of champagne out on the balcony, overlooking the lovely Andrassy Avenue). The programme of events is very rich and it’s quite easy to get a seat. But the highlight of the end of the year is to go the New Year’s Eve gala and ball (I’ve tried it…) After 45 minutes of opera we ate in a magnificent hall then danced all night (on the stage!).

Christmas Market
In December my footsteps regularly take me to the Christmas Market in the ravishing Vörösmarty Square. On my travels I wander among the charming wooden chalets and gladly buy small gifts, because the craftsmen there show real quality. I benefit from meeting my friends and you can sit at a table to munch typical seasonal food. In the evening, amidst the Christmas lights and appetising smells, you can thaw out with your friends or family while drinking hot mulled wine with music in the background. It’s even better when it’s cold!

Pâtisseries
What can be better when it’s cold than to try great cake somewhere cosy? Just off the way stands Gerbeaud, the most famous pâtissier in Budapest. Living on the outskirts of Buda, I chose to stop during the week at Auguste, which is less touristy but more intimate. The very nice owner speaks French and she makes macaroons and a delicious Esterházy cake.

Walks in the snow
The Normafa hills are the perfect place to be out with your family: tobogganing, cross-country skiing, walking… and the hilltop (527m) provides a panoramic view of the city. You can go up by car or in the chair-lift. On the way back you can appreciate the comfort of the Szamos Marcipan Pâtisserie and try their excellent marzipan and cakes along with a cup of tea or hot chocolate.

Skating Rinks
During the winter, close to Budapest’s West railway station (Nyugati), the roof terrace of the huge West End shopping centre is transformed into a family ice rink, open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. (with background music and skate hire). You can get there very easily on the metro or tram (4-6) and you can also have something to eat or shop in the West End.

Christmas at Nagytétény Castle
Every year a complete series of Advent and Christmas events is organised in one of the most beautiful baroque palaces in Hungary. Thirty Christmas trees are magnificently decorated by contemporary artists. You and your family can taste regional products (honey, herb teas, preserves, roast chestnuts, hot mulled wine and strudel) and the weekends are full of concerts and festivities for children. This is also the time to buy lovely decorations for your Christmas tree. (www.nagytetenyi.hu)

Mangalica Festival 4-6 February in Városliget
This is the occasion for discovering a typically Hungarian translation. Few foreigners know that a mangalica is a Hungarian breed of pig which stands out because of its rich, curly hair, which can be fair, black or red. Its other characteristic is that the meat has more flavour than classic pork. No doubt I shall return this year to this festival, located in the magnificent grounds of Vajdahunyad Castle, where you can try cold or grilled sausage, mangalica-based dishes prepared before your eyes, hot mulled wine, cakes and artisanal products (preserves, honey, pálinka…). For a rest I make my way over to the Széchenyi Baths, just five minutes away on foot (mangalicafesztival.hu).

Shopping in the Big Centres
From Monday until Sunday, no matter what the weather, alone or with the family, you can spend the day in the shopping centres. These are nothing like the ones you’ve seen in France. Once you’ve left your car in the underground car park you’re ready to prowl the various levels. Airy and well-lit walkways cross each other amidst the seasonal decorations. You can find everything there: bowling, skating, boutiques, sport, electronics, supervised children’s playgrounds, cinemas, restaurants... It’s hard to leave them empty-handed. There’s Mammut, Allée and Mom Park on the Buda side, West End and Arena Plaza on the Pest side. Corvin has just opened but I still haven’t had the time to go there. They are all accessible by public transport.

Sylvie Martin

Top 10 Winter Attractions in Budapest - Christian

2011-01-12T05:42:00.000-08:00

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Der Winter bricht an und macht uns bewusst, dass es kaum etwas Schöneres gibt, als die warmen, romantischen Sommernächte in Budapest auf dem Weg nach Hause von der Margaretheninsel, ganz gleich, ob man aus einem Club, aus dem Bad oder von einem abendlichen Lauf kommt. Auf der Margarethenbrücke kann man das unvergleichliche Budapester Panorama genießen, das zum UNESCO Welterbe gehört. Sowohl im Sommer als auch im Winter kann man den magischen Anblick der Sterne genießen, die sich in der Donau spiegeln oder am Himmel glänzen, während man im wunderbar warmen Wasser des Széchenyi-Bades entspannt. Unter den Top 10-Winterattraktionen ist dies mein persönlicher Favorit in Budapest und auch die dampfenden und heilsamen Wässer der anderen Budapester Bäder (z.B. Rudas, Gellért, Dagály) sollten Sie sich nicht entgehen lassen.

Der Winter in Budapest kann hart sein. Die Thermalbäder sind jedoch das beste Gegenmittel gegen die Dunkelheit und den mitteleuropäischen Frost, genau wie Pálinka, ein weiteres Lebenselixier, das in jedem Fall auch zu den Winterattraktionen gehört.

Für unternehmungslustige Menschen bieten sich für diese Jahreszeit die Ausstellungen und Museen in Budapest an. Wie wäre es also mit einem Besuch im Ludwig-Museum oder im (durchaus bedrückenden) Museum „Haus des Terrors” (Terror Háza)? Auch das Millenáris lädt zu Ausstellungen ein, im Museum der bildenden Kunst (Szépművészeti Múzeum) warten Klimt und die Art Nouveau und gegenüber in der Kunsthalle (Műcsarnok) die zeitgenössische Kunst. Wem das zu hoch ist, für den ist vielleicht das Dreher Biermuseum (Dreher Sörmúzeum) in Kőbánya das Richtige. Oh je, wenn man diese ganzen Museen zu den Attraktionen zählt, dann ist die TOP 10-Liste schnell gefüllt, aber Budapest hat im Winter noch viel mehr zu bieten.

Mit der Zahnradbahn und der Kindereisenbahn kann man Normafa erkunden und falls Schnee liegt, sollten Sie dabei Ihren Schlitten nicht vergessen. Ein stiller Spaziergang durch den Wald führt Sie zu den kleinen Holzhütten, an denen Strudel (rétes) und Glühwein verkauft werden.
Wenn Sie gerne Schlittschuh laufen (und wer tut das nicht, schließlich gibt es doch keine bessere Gelegenheit, Mädchen anzusprechen, denen man nach einem Sturz aufhilft ...) gäbe es in Budapest im Stadtwäldchen (Városliget) eine der größten und schönsten Eisbahnen. Nur leider wird diese zurzeit rekonstruiert. Stattdessen können Sie aber auf dem Dach des Westend oder auf dem Széna-Platz in der Nähe vom Mammut das Eis genießen.

Der Budapester Weihnachtsmarkt gilt als einer der besten in Europa und in diesem Jahr ist er noch größer als sonst. Kleinere Märkte finden Sie außerdem auf dem Liszt Ferenc-Platz und dem Blaha Lujza-Platz. Auch auf dem Schloss von Nagytétény geht es weihnachtlich zu. Der Schmuck für die Tannenbäume stammt von bekannten ungarischen Volkskünstlern.

Und es gibt eine ganz besondere Budapester Attraktion, die ich auch im Sommer schon erwähnt habe:
Die Budapester Hausparty, diesmal in der Winterausgabe. Heizen Sie Ihre Wohnung so gut Sie können, entweder mit Gas – dann wird es ein bisschen teurer – oder (die billigere Variante) mit jeder Menge Gäste. Laden Sie alle Ungarn ein, die Sie kennen. Halten Sie eine große Portion Glühwein bereit und reichern Sie diese heimlich mit 55%-igem Pálinka an. Dann haben Sie eine weitere Budapester TOP-10 Winterattraktion. Ich empfehle Ihnen jedoch, die Nachbarn mit etwas Glühwein zu bestechen und Ihre Wohnung vorher gut zu versichern.

Christian Brandmayr

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Winter is coming now and yes, we must admit, that nothing compares to a warm and romantic Budapest summer night, when you walk home from a club, evening run or a bath from Margaret Island over Margaret Bridge, from where you can enjoy the incomparable panorama of Budapest, which is even a UNESCO World Heritage. Once thing is the same in winter and summer, the stars are magically sparkling in the Danube as they do on the sky, when you are soaking outdoors in the wonderful hot water of Szechenyi Bath. And that is Top 10 winter attraction number 1 in Budapest for me and you should feel free to test also the healing and steaming waters in some other Budapest bathes (e.g. Rudás, Gellért, Dagály..).

Winter can be hard in Budapest, with no sunshine and light and bloody cold, but those bathes are the best survival kit for a frosty Central European winter and with a shot of Pálinka they become a turbo-survival kit. So let’s add Pálinka to winter attractions, responsibly though.

And for those sporty, fun and party loving people, who love to live…in Budapest, the time now came to check out some museums and exhibitions. So what about a jump into the Ludwig Museum, a shock at Terror-Ház, an exhibition at Millenáris, Art Nouvau with Klimt at the Szépművészeti Múzeum, contemporary art at the Mücsarnok… or for some lighter stuff you can even visit the Dreher Sör Museum in Kobanya. Puhaa, if I count all those museums as an attraction, then I am almost finished with that TOP 10 list, but Budapest has a lot more to offer in winter:
Take the rack railway or the children’s railway up to Normafa and don’t forget to take a sledge with you, if there is snow. You can have a silent walk in the forest and then reward yourself with the best “Strudel” (Retes) or mulled wine, which are sold in small wooden huts.
You like ice-skating on rinks, some say, this can be the best dating place (if you fall down together and help the girl up…) … well Budapest has one of the biggest and most beautiful ice rinks at Varosliget, but that lovely place is under reconstruction now. You can also enjoy it on the roof of Westend or close to Mammut at Szena Tér.

The Budapest Christmas Market is considered to be one of the best in Europe and this year it is also extended on Fashion Street. Smaller markets can be found on Liszt Ferenc Square and Blaha Lujza Square. And you can find Christmas spirit also at the Nagytétényi Castle with Christmas trees festively decorated by famous Hungarian applied artists.

And there is thiat very special Budapest attraction, I have been also writing about in summer:
The Budapest Házibuli: Winteredition. Heat up your flat as much as you can; expensive version with gas or a lot cheaper with a lot of people. Invite as much Hungarians as you can. Make a lot of tasty mulled wine and put secretly some 55% Pálinka in it. Then you will have another TOP 10 Budapest Winter Attraction, but be sure your flat is well insured and your neighbors are also bribed with some of your mulled wine….

Christian Brandmayr

Top Ten Winter Attractions - Melanie

2011-01-11T15:27:00.000-08:00

Top Ten Winter Attractions

I love winter in Budapest, as compared to England it is what I would call a „proper” winter! That means that the likelihood of snow is high, and Budapest has many of those beautiful, clear days where it is freezing but the sky is blue. Another bonus is that Hungarians know how to heat interiors (unlike Brits!). It is rarely less than 25C anywhere indoors, and in many places anything more than a T-shirt is too much.....

My Top Ten Winter Attractions would include:

1) Ice-skating in the Város Liget or City Park. This takes place on a giant ice-rink in a location where there is a gorgeous view of the Vajdahunyad Castle. If you are a bit rubbish at ice-skating like me, then it helps to have a few mulled wines before you start! In winter 2010/2011 the rink may be closed due to renovation, in which case try the smaller ice rink on the top of WestEnd shopping centre.

2) Hanging out in the cosy cafés. I generally prefer the old-style Cukrászda like Central, Europa, Müvész, but I also like Farger, Déryné and Duna Park. The only problem in winter is that there isn’t a non-smoking ban in Hungary, so the smoke can be irritating.

3) Walking and sledging in the area known as the Kopaszi Gát which is a regenerated half island next to the Lágymányosi híd. There are a couple of cafés, childrens‘ playground, riverside beaches and lovely walkways.

4) The Budapest Christmas Market in Vörösmarty Tér (or Square). This seems to get better every year, with handcrafted goods, traditional Hungarian food and live performances

5) Sitting in the hot steaming waters of a spa. Széchenyi Fürdő is my particular favourite because of the beautiful buildings and the fact that you can sit outside surrounded by snow in your bikini!

6) Admiring the view of the whole city on a cold, clear day from the Castle area. If it gets too chilly, visitors can always pop in and visit the Labyrinth or head to the lovely old Ruszwurm café.

7) Indoor Playhouses for kids when it gets cold. There are so many great ones in Budapest, big and small. My favourite is the one between the zoo and the Circus (Állatkert Játszóház), but also good are Mazsola in Arany János Utca and the various Kölyök Parks in shopping centres (e.g. Mammut).

8) The Millenaris area behind Mammut. There is always something going on here in addition to the fantastic Palace of Miracles (Csodák Palotája), such as exhibitions and concerts. It’s best to check in magazines like Funzine for updated information.

9) Museums, but especially the Ludwig Museum and the adjoining Müpa (or Palace of Arts). In addition to modern art exhibitions and concerts, there is a nice café and restaurant, baby concerts every second Monday morning, and a brilliant and free family Sunday programme (10am-3pm) with music, dance and crafts.

10) Walking next to the Danube when it is frozen. It looks particularly spectacular from the Chain Bridge but also from the Margaret Island. If the river is not (too) frozen, then join a boat trip from Vigadó Tér.

by Melanie Smith

Top 10 Winter Attractions in Budapest - Scott

2011-01-11T13:10:00.000-08:00

Top 10 Winter Attractions in Budapest

1. Coffee and cake at either Café Gerbaud, Central or New York. The city’s great coffee houses are still going strong 100 years or so after they opened their doors, and long may they continue to do so.

2. A drink at the bar of the Four Season’s Hotel. Less than a decade ago, this magnificent building was practically in ruins so you can toast the rebirth of Budapest here in some style.

3. The polar opposite, a drink at Vittula, the best grungy dive bar in Central Europe, bar none.

4. Shopping at the West End Mall, even if it is just window shopping - to admire all the wives and girlfriends out strutting their stuff.

5. Ice skating on the rink at Hunyadi castle. There’s good, wholesome fun to be had skating around in front of a replica of a Transylvanian castle.

6. The New Year’s Eve Ball at the Budapest Opera House. I’m dying to try this one out myself. They say it’s rather pricey but worth every forint, and it’s good to take the tuxedo or ball gown out of mothballs at least once a year.

7. Midnight mass at the Saint Stephen’s Basilica on December 24th.

8. A stroll down Andrassy avenue at sunset. If you need any reminding why this city was always known as the Paris of Central Europe, then this will do the trick nicely.

9. Taking the waters at Rudas Baths; watching the moles of light from a mosaic domed ceiling floating in the steam rising above the water. Their Cinetrip parties are fun too, especially if you’re comfortable in swim suit or bikini.

10. A silly night out clubbing, at one or more of the big international clubs like Dokk or Bed, but ending up, not in bed, but at Piaf, the after-hours dance bar where anything can happen – and has been for years.

by Scott Alexander Young

Entrevista con Carlos

2011-01-07T04:51:00.000-08:00

Read below in English

¿Cuándo visitaste Budapest por primera vez?
Llegué en el año 2000. Empecé a enseñar español en dos pequeñas academias de lengua. Era un trabajo que me habían prometido antes de venir, así que desde el primer momento ya tenía una ocupación. El segundo año encontré otro trabajo en un teatro y es a eso a lo que me he venido dedicando hasta hoy.

¿Qué sabías sobre Budapest antes de venir aquí?
No sabía casi nada. En esa época la imagen de Hungría en España era una incógnita. El país y la cultura húngara estaban en medio de una nebulosa entre el Imperio Austro-Húngaro y los Balcanes, se conocía muy poco de Hungría. Antes de venir aquí busqué libros sobre el país y su cultura traducidos al español en Barcelona y no encontré casi nada.

¿Cuánto tiempo hace que vives aquí?
Hace 10 años ya, desde que llegué por primera vez. Viajé mucho por Europa y mi última parada fue Budapest. Cuando vine no tenía intención de quedarme tanto tiempo. Mi estancia aquí iba a ser otra etapa de mi viaje. Después de los dos primeros años ya me di cuenta de que era algo más que una parada temporal.

¿Por qué decidiste mudarte a Budapest?
No había una razón concreta para mudarme aquí. Yo siempre digo que llegué a Budapest por casualidad. Conocí a una pareja de húngaros y ellos me empezaron a hablar muy bien sobre Hungría y Budapest. Ellos fueron los que me ofrecieron el trabajo de profesor de español y entonces aproveché la oportunidad.

¿Qué haces ahora en Budapest?
Enseñar español fue una transición. Soy director y autor de teatro. Este trabajo apareció también por casualidad: conocí una pareja de titiriteros, nos hicimos amigos y ellos me propusieron escribir y dirigir una obra de teatro.

¿Qué tipo de choque cultural has experimentado en Budapest?
No me gusta mucho esto del choque cultural. La gente suele acentuar más las cosas que nos hacen diferentes en lugar de las que nos hacen semejantes. Hay algunas costumbres, digamos, que son distintas: por ejemplo, las horas de la comida o la ausencia de la siesta, pero entre Hungría y España, desde mi punto de vista, no hay realmente un choque cultural.

¿Qué te gusta de Budapest?
Durante los primeros años sentí mucha libertad. Ahora que ya estoy inmerso en la vida cotidiana no siento el mismo romanticismo que entonces, pero las sensaciones de tranquilidad y de estar donde estoy a gusto no han cambiado. Me encanta la zona donde vivo, pasear por la avenida Andrássy y tomar café donde lo tomo cada día... esto no lo quiero cambiar.

¿Qué es lo que no te gusta de Budapest?
No me gusta como están abandonados algunos edificios y barrios. Tampoco me gustan algunos aspectos del transporte público: aunque son bastante puntuales, pero, comparado con otros lugares, son muy caros.

¿Qué tiene Budapest que no tiene tu país de origen?
Barcelona y Madrid se han hecho ciudades demasiado grandes para mí donde se respira el estrés por la calle. Budapest me parece mucho más relajante. Además tiene un río enorme y precioso, un ambiente histórico, pero vivo, y todo esto forma parte de la vida cotidiana.

¿Cómo es la gente de aquí comparada con la gente de tu país? ¿Cuál es la diferencia entre ellos?
Los húngaros son más tranquilos, más introvertidos que los españoles. Son también más claros. Hablando con los españoles, a veces, tienes que leer entre líneas. A un nivel superficial se notan diferencias, pero en realidad no hay muchas.

¿Hablas húngaro?
Mi relación con el húngaro es de amor y odio. Es un idioma bellísimo, pero muy difícil. Hay que aprender mucho para decir una cosa muy sencilla. Tengo un vocabulario especializado: por ejemplo antes de conocer la palabra “mano” ya sabía cómo se dice “atril” (“kottatartó”). Ahora ya no me estresa tanto el hecho de hablar húngaro, aprovecho todas las oportunidades para usarlo. No puedes conocer un país y su gente hasta que no hablas su idioma.

¿Quién/qué es la persona/cosa más famosa de Hungría en tu país?
Kodály, Liszt, Bartók... Pero bueno, si hay que nombrar a alguien realmente famoso en España, como el fútbol es uno de los temas más populares, ese sería Puskás. Teniendo en cuenta la popularidad del fútbol, él es el húngaro más famoso allí.

¿Cómo crees que podrían aprovechar Hungría y Budapest la presidencia de la Unión Europea?
Hungría puede aprovechar la presidencia para dar a conocer al mundo la problemática del país y lo que está ocurriendo aquí. Aunque medio año es, quizá, muy poco tiempo para eso.

Preguntas para ayudar las turistas

¿En tu opinión, cuál es la mejor temporada para visitar Budapest?
Todo el año. Lo típico sería el verano, pero en invierno parece otra ciudad con la nieve, igual de interesante.

¿Cuánto tiempo vale la pena pasar en la ciudad?
Puedes ver la ciudad en 3 o 4 días, pero no te da tiempo para nada. Yo recomendaría 2 semanas como mínimo para verlo todo con detalle y tranquilamente. Aunque en dos semanas tampoco se puede ver todo...

¿Recomiendas Buda o Pest para alojarse?
Yo soy más de la ciudad, así que diría Pest. Pero para alguien a quien le guste más la paz de la naturaleza, Buda es la mejor opción.

¿Qué lugares son los que vale más la pena ver en Budapest?
Los baños. No son tan comunes en España y son espectaculares. Todos son diferentes: los de Széchenyi son los más populares, los Gellért son preciosos por dentro y los Rudas también tienen un ambiente muy especial. Si se queda uno los días suficientes, se puede visitar todos.

¿Cuáles son los valores escondidos de Budapest? (lo que no se conoce y se debería conocer)
Los bares “ruina”, son más y más populares, pero no están en las guías. La idea de estos es genial, se puede tomar una copa, comer algo y hay eventos musicales también. Mi favorito es el 400, está justo en la calle del Szimpla Kert (el primero y más grande de este tipo de bares).

¿Cómo es un fin de semana ideal para un visitante?
Un paseo por mañana en la Isla Margarita, comida en Pozsonyi Vendéglő, donde se puede degustar comida húngara fantástica, por la tarde ir al teatro a ver un espectáculo, luego se puede tomar una copa en un bar “ruina”. El domingo pueden disfrutarse los baños o pasear por la zona del castillo. Esto deberíamos hacerlo nosotros también a veces.

¿Qué deberían evitar los visitantes en Budapest o con qué tienen que tener cuidado?
No hay ningún peligro especial en Budapest, o algo a lo que se tenga que tener cuidado que no esté en cualquier otro lugar del mundo. Hay que fijarse cuando se paga en un restaurante, o cuando se viaja en el transporte público, pero no hay ninguna amenaza típica.

¿En qué programa o evento deberían participar los visitantes?
Lo que puedo recomendar es la ópera o el teatro, se pueden ver muchas obras clásicas y contemporáneas también. Muchos de estos eventos culturales se pueden disfrutar también sin hablar húngaro.

¿Qué lugares recomiendas para los visitantes que tienen más tiempo en Budapest y quieren visitar algo fuera de la ciudad?
Estoy enamorado de Tata. Es un pueblecito al lado de un lago, se puede pasear por allí, hay una placita preciosa donde está el ayuntamiento, hay un mirador también y los domingos se organiza un mercadillo. Y queda solo a 40 minutos de Budapest.

Favoritos:

- lugar en Buda:
la Zona del Castillo

- lugar en Pest:
la Zona entre la Plaza Liszt y la Ópera, la calle Nagymező

- café en Budapest:
el Café Mai Manó

- edificio/obra de arquitectura:
la estación de tren de Nyugati

- músico húngaro:
el Balázs Elemér Group

- estatua en Budapest:
la de Ferenc Liszt, en la plaza Liszt

- parque:
la Isla Margarita

- lugar para salir:
el 400, los bares de los distritos 6 y 7

- persona húngara: Miklós Radnóti

- cuento sobre Budapest:
la historia de la unión entre Buda y Pest

Leer los artícluos de Carlos aquí >>

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Read here in English

To get to know you

When did you first visit Budapest?
I arrived in 2000 and started teaching Spanish in two small language schools. This work was offered to me before I came, so from the moment I arrived I had a job. The following year I found another job in a theatre and this is what I have been doing until now.

What did you know about Budapest before you came here?
I knew almost nothing. At that time the image of Hungary in Spain was an unknown country. Hungary and its culture were surrounded by a vagueness between the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the Balkans;, people knew very little about the country. Before I came, I looked for books about the country and its culture which were translated into Spanish in Barcelona, but found almost nothing.

How long have you been living here?
It has been 10 years now since I arrived for the first time. I travelled a lot around Europe and Budapest was my final destination. I had no intention to stay for such a long time when I came here. My stay here was supposed to be just another station on my journey. After those first two years I realised that this was not just a temporary stay.

Why did you decide to move to Budapest?
I did not have a concrete reason to move here. I always say that I came to Budapest by accident. I knew a Hungarian couple and they started to say nice things about Hungary and Budapest. They were the ones who offered me the Spanish teacher position, so I grabbed the opportunity.

What are you doing in Budapest now?
Teaching Spanish was only temporary. Now I am a director and playwright in a theatre. This job also occurred by accident: I knew a couple who were puppeteers, we became friends and they proposed that I should write and direct a play.

What culture shocks have you experienced in Budapest?
I don’t really like being asked about culture shocks. People tend to emphasise the things we do differently instead of those that are similar. There are some customs, we say, that are distinct, for instance the times of meals or the lack of the siesta but I think, there are no actual culture shocks between Hungary and Spain.

What do you like in Budapest?
In the first years I felt freedom. Now that I am absorbed in everyday life I don't feel the romanticism I did before but the feelings of tranquillity, and that I am where I would like to be, have not changed. I love the area I live in, walking down Andrássy Avenue and having coffee where I do every day... I don’t want to change that.

What is it that you don’t like in Budapest?
I don’t like the way some buildings and neighbourhoods are abandoned. I don’t like some aspects of public transportation either: even thought they are mostly on time, they are very expensive compared to other places.

What does Budapest have that your home country doesn't?
Barcelona and Madrid have grown too large for me: you can breathe in the stress on the streets. Budapest appears to be much more relaxing for me. In addition, it has a large and gorgeous river, a historic yet lively atmosphere and all these form a part of everyday life.

What are the people like here compared to the people in your country? What is the difference between them?
Hungarians are calmer and more introverted than the Spanish. They are also more straightforward. When you speak to Spanish people, sometimes you need to read between the lines. On the surface one can find differences, but actually, there aren't many.

Do you speak Hungarian?
I am in a love-hate relationship with the Hungarian language. It is a very beautiful language, but it is very difficult at the same time. You have to learn a lot to say even the simplest things. I have a unique vocabulary: for instance before I knew the word “mano”, I already knew how they say "atril" ("kottatartó", music-stand) Speaking Hungarian does not make me so anxious anymore; I make use of every opportunity to use it. You cannot get to know a country and its people until you speak their language.

Who/what is the most famous Hungarian person/thing in your country?
Kodály, Liszt, Bartók… But, okay, if I have to name someone who is really well known in Spain, since football is one of the most popular topics, it would be Puskás. Considering the popularity of football, he is the most famous Hungarian there.

How do you think Hungary and Budapest could make use of the presidency of the European Union?
With the help of the presidency, Hungary could show the world all the troubles the country is facing. However, half a year is probably a bit too short for this.

Questions to helping tourists

Which do you think is the best season to visit Budapest?
The whole year. The most typical time would be the summer, but in wintertime, with the snow, it seems to be a different but equally fascinating city.

How much time is worth spending in the city?
You can look around in the city in three or four days but you will not have time for anything. I suggest that at least two weeks are needed to see all the details without a rush. However, you can’t see everything in two weeks either…

Do you recommend Buda or Pest for accommodation?
I am more of a city-dweller, so I would recommend Pest. But for someone who prefers the tranquillity of nature, Buda is a better option.

Which are the places that are most worth visiting in Budapest?
The baths. They are less common in Spain and yet they are spectacular. Each of them is different: Széchenyi is the most popular, the interior of the Gellért is the most gorgeous and Rudas also has a very unique atmosphere. If one has enough time, one can visit all of them.

What are the hidden treasures in Budapest? (the ones you don't know but you must get to know)
The “ruin pubs” are getting more and more popular, although they are not included in tourist guides. The idea of “ruin pubs” is ingenious, you can have a drink, something to eat and there are concerts, too. My favourite is 400, which is in the same street as Szimpla Kert (the first and largest among these types of bars).

What is an ideal weekend like for a tourist?
A walk in the morning ont Margaret Island, lunch at Pozsonyi Vendéglő, where one can taste fantastic Hungarian dishes, going to the theatre in the evening to watch a play and later a drink at one of the "ruin pubs". On Sunday one can visit the baths or take a walk in the Castle District. Everyone should do this from time to time.

What should visitors to Budapest avoid or whom should they be careful with?
There are no particular dangers in Budapest or things that visitors have to be careful with that do not occur in any other place. One should be careful when paying in a restaurant or when using public transportation but there is no typical threat.

In what programme or event should visitors participate?
I can recommend the opera house or the theatre; there are many classical and contemporary plays to see. One can enjoy many of these events even without speaking Hungarian.

What places do you suggest for visitors who have more time to spend in Budapest and who would like to visit something outside the city?
I’m in love with Tata. It is a small village near a lake where one can take walks and there is a beautiful square where the town hall is. There is a lookout, too and street markets are held on Sundays. And it is only 40 minutes from Budapest.

Favourites:
- place in Buda: the Castle District
- place in Pest: the area between Liszt Square and the Opera House, Nagymező Street
- café in Budapest: Café Mai Manó
- building/piece of architecture: Nyugati railway station
- Hungarian music: the Balázs Elemér Group
- statue in Budapest: The statue of Ferenc Liszt in Liszt Square
- park Margaret Island
- place to go out: 400 and the pubs in the 6th and 7th districts
- Hungarian person: Miklós Radnóti
- story about Budapest: the story of the unification of Buda and Pest

Read Carlos's blog posts here >>>

Intervista a Luca

2011-01-07T01:45:00.000-08:00

Read below in English

Quando hai visitato Budapest per la prima volta?
Sono stato a Budapest per la prima volta durante le vacanze natalizie del 2008.

Quali erano le tue idee della città prima di visitarla?
Pensavo Budapest fosse la tipica capitale dell’est Europa, povera e un po’ fredda. Ancora condizionata dal suo passato comunista.

Da quanto abiti a Budapest?
Io non mi sono ancora trasferito definitivamente a Budapest, diciamo che sono un “pendolare”. Farò la spola tra l’Italia e l’Ungheria fino a che non finirò l’università a Salerno, dove sono iscritto alla facoltà di Scienze della Comunicazione, poi si vedrà.

Perché hai deciso di muovere qui?
Nell’estate del 2008 conobbi una ragazza ungherese e cominciammo a frequentarci. Per starle più vicino cominciai a venire a Budapest sempre più spesso.

Che esperienze hai avuto a Budapest come uno shock culturale?
Non ho avuto esperienze particolari, l’unica cosa che mi ha sorpreso è stata l’uso, e a volte l’abuso, che qualche ungherese fa dell’alcool.

Che cosa ti piace di Budapest?
Di Budapest mi piace il fatto che sia una città “viva” e molto stimolante. E’ ricca di feste e avvenimenti culturali, c’è sempre un posto dove andare o una mostra da visitare. Diciamo che non ci si annoia mai…

Che cosa non ti piace di Budapest?
D’inverno fa molto freddo, e per me abituato al clima mite del sud Italia questo è un problema non indifferente. E mi fa un po’ pena vedere i tanti senzatetto che affollano le stazioni della metro.

Che cosa ha Budapest che la tua patria non ha?
Invidio a Budapest il sistema del trasporto urbano che io considero di ottima qualità. Quello che esporterei in Italia sono i tanti bar di nuova generazione, tipo Szimpla e Csendes, dall’arredamento retrò e leggermente kitch.

Come sono le persone che vivono a Budapest contro la tua nazione? Qual è la differenza tra loro?
Non ho notato differenze particolari, sicuramente sono un po’ più chiuse e diffidenti, ma ho imparato che questo è solo all’inizio, basta poco a diventare buoni amici.

Puoi Parlare Ungherese?
Diciamo che ho una conoscenza molto elementare.

Chi è il più famoso ungherese(persona o cosa) nel tuo paese?
A parte il salame, penso il più famoso sia il pilota di Moto Gp Talmacsi.

Che cosa pensi, può profitare l’Ungheria e Budapest del progetto “EU-Presidenza”?
Penso che l’Ungheria possa trarne grandi vantaggi, soprattutto cominciare a vivere l’Unione Europea da protagonista e finalmente spazzar via la pesante atmosfera da stato post-comunista.

DOMANDE PER I TURISTI:

Secondo te quando vale la pena visitare Budapest?
Io penso che Budapest sia una città speciale, che cambia con il passare delle stagioni e offre sempre cose diverse. Sicuramente il periodo migliore è quello che va da aprile ad agosto, se non altro perché il clima permette di spendere molto tempo all’aperto e quindi godersi appieno la città.

Per quanto tempo vale la pena visitare la città?
Diciamo che il minimo sono 3-4 giorni, ma per una visita “soddisfacente” ci vuole almeno una settimana.

Che cosa consigli di prenotare un alloggio a Buda oppure a Pest?
Penso che Pest sia migliore dal punto di vista geografico ed è più ricca di locali e attrazioni varie. Mentre se si vuole privilegiare la quiete e l’eleganza Buda è il posto giusto.

Quali sono i luoghi da non perdere di visitare?
Penso che Vaci utca e Vorosmarty ter siano il punto di partenza obbligato, la cattedrale di S. Stefano, il Parlamento e il distretto del Castello di Buda sono le tappe obbligate da percorrere.

Quali sono i valori nascosti della città( che non molti sanno, anche se dovrebbero)?
Io penso il valore di cui la città è impregnata sia l’orgoglio, che gli deriva dal suo passato importante, e la voglia di tornare ad essere protagonista sul palcoscenico politico e culturale internazionale.

Come è un ideale fine settimana citybreak Budapest?
Oltre ai posti che ho già menzionato nei luoghi da non perdere, ci aggiungerei un paio di ore nelle acque termali dei bagni Szecheny, una visita ad un museo a scelta tra il Terror Haza, dove si trovano testimonianze delle dittature nazista e comunista, o il Szépművészeti, il museo delle Belle Arti e pranzare in nel mercato coperto di Kalvin ter mangiando Langos o Kolbasz.

Cosa devono fare i turisti per evitare a Budapest e cosa devono stare attenti?
Stare attenti al resto, a volte ti truffano approfittando del fatto di non conoscere le banconote. Poi diffidare da avvenenti signorine che vi invitano a prendere un drink insieme, sicuramente pagherete una cifra spropositata, poi basta un po’ di buon senso, in generale io la trovo una città molto sicura.

In quale programma o evento dovrebbero prendere parte i turisti a Budapest?
Penso lo “Sziget Music Festival” sia una appuntamento a cui ogni giovane debba partecipare almeno una volta nella sua vita.

Quali luoghi devono visitare i turisti se hanno tempo di viaggiare nei pressi di Budapest?
Senza dubbio Szentendre, una cittadina molto caratteristica adagiata sulle rive del Danubio.

Qual è…

...Il tuo luogo preferito a Buda?
“Il Bastione dei pescatori”

...Il tuo luogo preferito a Pest?
Il parco di Varosliget.

...Il tuo caffè preferito a Budapest?
Csendes.

...La tua costruzione preferita?
Il Parlamento.

...Il tuo compositore/banda ungherese preferita?
Non riesco a sceglierne uno, i primi tre sono Eric Sumo Band, 30Y e Besh’o’Drom.

...La tua scultura preferita nella città?
I leoni del “Chain bridge”.

...Il tuo locale notturno preferito?
Corvintettò.

...La tua persona ungherese preferita?
Si chiama Barbara…

...La tua storia preferita di Budapest?
Mi piace molto la storia del “Chain bridge”, il primo ponte costruito che collegava Buda e Pest.

Read Luca's blog posts here >>>

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Read here in English

When did you visit Budapest for the first time?
I came to Budapest for the first time during the Christmas holidays in 2008.

What did you think about this city before your visit?
I thought about Budapest as the typical East European capital: poor, cold and still influenced by its communist past.

How long have you been living in Budapest?
I haven’t yet moved definitely to Budapest, so let’s say that I am a “commuter”. I will be shuttling between Italy and Hungary until I finish my studies at the Faculty of Communication Sciences of the Salerno University and then we will see.

Why did you decide to come here?
In the summer of 2008 I met a Hungarian girl and we started dating. Then I began to come more often to Budapest just to be close to her.

What kind of experiences did you find in Budapest that you considered a cultural shock?
I didn’t have any such experience. The only thing that took me by surprise was the way some Hungarians use – or sometimes abuse – alcoholic drinks.

What is it that you like in Budapest?
In Budapest I like the fact that it is a “lively” and very stimulating city. It is rich in feasts and events, so there’s always a place to go to and an exhibition to visit. We can say that life is never boring here...

What is it that you don’t like in Budapest?
It is very cold in winter and, for a man like me grown up in the mild climate of Southern Italy, it is not a small problem. Also, I feel a bit uneasy when I see the crowds of homeless people at the underground stations.

Is there anything in Budapest that you cannot find in your country? I envy Budapest for its great public transport system. What I would like to export to Italy is a set of new generation coffee bars such as Szimpla or Csendes furnished with old-fashioned and slightly kitsch pieces.

What do you think of the people living in Budapest in comparison with the people living in your country? What is the difference between them?
I can not tell you any particular difference. People here are certainly a bit more reserved and distrustful but I have already learnt that it is true only at the beginning because it takes very little for them to become good friends.

Do you speak Hungarian?
Well, let’s say that I have a rather elementary knowledge of this language.

Who is the most famous Hungarian (person or thing) in your country?
Apart from the salami, I think the most famous person is Talmácsi, the Moto GP pilot.

Do you think that Hungary and Budapest can benefit from the “EU Presidency”?
I think that Hungary could get great advantages from this and, most importantly, it could start living as a leading actor of the European Union and sweep out at last the heavy atmosphere of a post-communist state.

QUESTIONS FOR TOURISTS:

In your opinion, what is the best time to visit Budapest?
I think that Budapest is a special city that changes with seasons and offers always different things. Certainly, the best period is between April and August, mostly because the weather allows the visitors to stay outside a lot and to fully enjoy the city.

What is the recommended duration of a visit to this city?
I think that the minimum duration should be 3-4 days but at least a week is needed for a “satisfactory” visit.

Do you recommend to book an accommodation in Buda or Pest?
Well, Pest is better in terms of location and it is also more abundant in bars and various attractions. However, if one prefers tranquillity and elegance then Buda is the right place to stay.

What are the places that one must absolutely see?
I think that Váci utca and Vörösmarty tér are the obligatory starting points and then one should absolutely visit St. Stephen’s Basilica, the Parliament and the Buda Castle.

What are the hidden values of the city (that many people don’t know even if they should)?
I think that the value that this city is impregnated with is a kind of pride coming from its important past and a wish to return and become again a lead actor on the stage of politics and international culture.

What does an ideal city break weekend look like in Budapest?
Well, in addition to the places that I have already mentioned, I would recommend a few hours in the Széchenyi Bath, a visit to either the House of Terrors (Terror Háza) to see evidences of the Nazi and Communist dictatorships or the Museum of Fine Arts (Szépművészeti Múzeum), and a breakfast in the covered market near Kálvin tér, eating ‘lángos’ or ‘kolbász’.

What are the things that tourists must avoid or pay attention to while in Budapest?
They must pay attention when receiving change as sometimes certain persons try to benefit from the fact that tourists do not know the banknotes. Also, they should not trust any pretty lady who wants to invite them for a drink because the result will be an enormous bill. In fact, a bit of common sense is always enough because I think that in general Budapest is a very safe city.

What programmes or events are recommended for tourists in Budapest?
I think that “Sziget Music Festival” is a place that all young people must visit at least once in their lives.

What are the places that are worth visiting if tourists have time to travel around Budapest?
No doubt, they should go to Szentendre, a very characteristic small town located along the Danube bank.

Which is…

...your favourite place in Buda?
“The Fisherman’s Bastion”

...your favourite place in Pest?
The City Park (Városliget).

...your favourite café in Budapest?
Csendes.

...your favourite building?
The Parliament.

...your favourite Hungarian composer/band?
I cannot choose just one, the first three are Eric Sumo Band, 30Y and Besh’o’Drom.

...your favourite sculpture in the city?
The lions of “Chain bridge”.

...your favourite night bar?
Corvintető.

...your favourite Hungarian person?
Her name is Barbara…

...your favourite story of Budapest?
love the story of “Chain bridge”, the first bridge that linked Buda and Pest.

Read Luca's blog posts here >>>

Entrevue avec Sylvie

2011-01-06T00:33:00.000-08:00

Read below in English

Quand êtes-vous venue à Budapest pour la première fois ?
Lors de notre aménagement à Budapest en juillet 2009.

Avant de visiter Budapest, que pensiez-vous de la ville?
J’avais entendu parler de la Hongrie, à travers de personnages connus, tels que Vasarely ou Franz Liszt, ainsi que pour le tourisme dentaire, mais je ne connaissais pas grande chose de Budapest. A partir du moment où j’ai su que nous allions y venir, j’ai consulté le site de l’Office du tourisme pour avoir plus d’informations.

Pourquoi avez-vous décidé de vous installer à Budapest ?
Mon mari a été muté à l’ambassade française de Budapest.

Quelle est votre occupation à Budapest ?
Je ne travaille pas et ai un fils de 6 ans et demi qui m’occupe une bonne partie de mon temps. Je suis bénévole au sein de l’association française Budapest Accueil, qui édite une lettre tous les deux mois. J’y rédige la rubrique culturelle et évènementielle (expositions, concerts, festivals, manifestations traditionnelles…) concernant plus particulièrement Budapest et au sens plus large la Hongrie en l’agrémentant de photographies.

Où habitez-vous à Budapest ?
J’habite sur les collines de Buda, dans l’arrondissement II/A, à proximité du Lycée français.
Quelle est l’expérience que vous qualifierez de choc culturel à Budapest ?
Choc culturel est un bien grand mot. Je n’étais jamais allée auparavant dans un pays d’Europe de l’Est. Je n’avais pas conscience de l’impact du communisme sur l’architecture de cette ville.

Qu’aimez à Budapest ?
Tout d’abord l’architecture qui est belle et diversifiée. J’aime aussi la richesse des actualités culturelles, les nombreux festivals. J’apprécie aussi le coût de la vie très intéressant pour nous français. J’aime aussi le tempérament et le rythme de vie. Ici on se donne du temps pour prendre soin de soi, aller au bain, se relaxer, alors qu’en France on est souvent pressé. J’apprécie aussi que Budapest soit une ville à taille humaine. Contrairement aux capitales comme Paris, on peut s’y déplacer facilement. La ville étant entourée de collines, c’est un peu la campagne à la ville et la ville à la campagne. Ma famille et moi même habitons dans un quartier de Buda, on est vraiment dans le countryside.

Qu’est-ce que vous n’aimez pas à Budapest ?
Il n’y a pas grand chose qui me gêne. Bien sûr, la langue n’est pas facile et j’avoue que je ne fais pas beaucoup d’efforts, d’autant plus qu’elle ne ressemble à aucune autre. Malgré que les gens soient très discrets, très gentils, je trouve qu’ils ont parfois un état d’esprit un peu résigné, un peu fataliste. Je trouve dommage que de nombreux bâtiments magnifiques, des maisons en particulier tombent en ruines alors que certains font partie du patrimoine de la ville. Pour vous donner un exemple : dès notre arrivée nous nous sommes baladé sur Andrássy, pas loin de la place Liszt, et avons remarqué des poteaux en bois qui soutenaient les maisons et que nous avons cru être temporaires. En effet en France, ils sont installés durant les travaux pour éviter que des éléments tombent sur les gens. A budapest ils y sont en permanence et y resteront jusqu’à ce que les travaux soient terminés. Mais ça ne me pose pas de problème personnel (elle rit).

Qu’est-ce qui existe à Budapest qui n’existe pas chez vous?
La culture des bains que nous n’avons pas du tout. Il est vrai que qu’il n’y en a pas autant en France qu’à Budapest ! Ici cet un état d’esprit où on prend le temps de se poser pendant quelques heures. La majorité des français ne fréquentent pas beaucoup les bains, et encore moins les bains extérieurs en hiver !. Nous n’avons pas non plus un lac tel que le lac Balaton, le plus grand d’Europe centrale. Et il y a aussi l’ambiance des « kert » : ces cafés en plein air installés dans des jardins ou des cours d’anciens immeubles où la musique va bon train. J’apprécie aussi la richesse, la variété des styles dans l’architecture : on trouve ici du baroque, de l’art déco...

Comment sont les habitants de Budapest par rapport à vos compatriotes, en quoi sont-ils différents ?
Leur côté un peu pessimiste. Cependant les budapestois sont des gens discrets et respectueux de manière générale, ce que j’apprécie beaucoup.

Parlez-vous le hongrois ?
Pas vraiment, à part de oui, non, merci, bonjour, au revoir, et quelques mots marché, pour survivre d’un point de vue alimentaire.

Qui est le Hongrois ou la chose de Hongrie la plus connue en France ?
Oh, il y a différentes choses ! : bien sûr notre président Nicolas Sarkozy. Dans un autre domaine, je connaissais le Rubik’s cube dès qu’il été créé et c’était un jeu révolutionnaire. Il y a les compositeurs Liszt et Béla Bartók... Et pour la population plus jeune et dynamique, le très réputé festival Sziget dont on parle dans les actualités françaises. J’en entendais déjà parlé alors avant d’arriver à Budapest.

Comment pensez-vous que la Hongrie et Budapest puissent tirer profit du projet de la présidence de l’Union Européenne?
Elle va en tirer profit à plusieurs niveaux. Environ 500 événements (réunions d’experts en défense, culture, environnement durable, économique…) vont être organisés dans le domaine politique. Les projecteurs médiatiques seront braqués sur la Hongrie, et particulièrement sur Budapest. Tout cela aura d’abord un impact direct sur les retombées économiques car il faudra héberger tous les intervenants. En parallèle, la ville va organiser des événements, des manifestations… ce qui créera une dynamique culturelle. Si Budapest s’est tirer profit de cette médiatisation en valorisant ces richesses culturelles, il devrait s’en suivre une augmentation de la fréquentation touristique de Budapest et de la Hongrie de manière générale, et ce, pour les années à venir. L’été dernier, alors que j’étais en France, j’ai regardé à la télévision le championnat d’Europe de natation qui s’est déroulé à Budapest. J’ai trouvé dommage que la majorité des images transmises sur Budapest était très accès sur le tourisme dentaire. Connaissant la ville, j’étais déçue que les français ne puissent pas partager avec moi le charme et le romantisme de cette ville magnifique, en bref, leur donner envie de la visiter.

Selon vous, quelle est la période où il faut visiter Budapest ?
L’hiver peut convenir aux gens un peu plus âgés, qui n’aiment pas la chaleur en été et se réjouissent des bains en hiver. Je ne fréquente pas les bains 38 degrés en été, le climat étant déjà chaud. Alors que l’hiver avec de la neige autour, c’est superbe. L’hiver il faut aussi aller à l’Opéra, déguster des gâteaux dans les cafés. Au printemps et en été on profite d’autres manifestations : la fête du vin, Varosliget, au château, à Hollókő, ou au Festival Sziget. J’éviterais la période janvier-février qui est calme d’un pont de vue culturel, comme dans la majorité des villes.

Pour combien de temps faut-il venir ?
Une semaine suffit pour visiter la ville elle-même, sans se presser, pour s’en imprégner. Et si l’on veut bien visiter les alentours, il faut revenir et faire un autre voyage !

Mieux vaut être logé à Buda ou à Pest ?
Je dirais que pour profiter des manifestations, il vaut mieux être à Pest. Ou alors à Buda, prêt du Danube.

Quelles sont les curiosités qu’il faut absolument visiter ?
Le quartier du château à Buda, aller à une soirée à l’Opéra, le Parlement, même si la visite est un peu frustrante, elle ne dure qu’une demi heure, on ne voit pas grande chose : on voit la couronne, c’est vrai, on peut visiter la grande salle des réunions, mais quand on sait qu’il y a 680 pièces, on a envie d’en voir un peu plus. Il faut aussi aller à Városliget, voir le château qui démontre des nombreux styles, les bains Széchenyi, c’est évident, et puis de nombreux petits cafés aussi. Et pour les enfants, il y a aussi le Zoo et plein d’autres attractions.

Quels sont les trésors cachés de Budapest (que beaucoup ne connaissent pas, pourtant, ils mériteraient de l’être) ?
Il faut prendre le temps de lever les yeux, pour regarder les façades des immeubles pour découvrir les beautés cachées de l’architecture. Il ne faut pas hésiter à entrer dans les cours, admirer les portes vitrées, les vitraux… ce qui n’est pas toujours facile en raison des digicodes. Quand on est allé au Hilton, dans le quartier du château, on a été agréablement surpris de découvrir dans sa cour intérieure les ruines d’un monastère médiéval. Ca, c’est un trésor caché. Il y a des grottes aussi qui sont très étonnantes. Comment peut-on avoir 30 kilomètres de grottes dans une ville ?!

Quel est un week-end ‘citybreak’ idéal à Budapest ?
Les bains Széchenyi, en premier, partir sur le tram n. 2, ce qui permet d’avoir une vue à la fois de Buda et de Pest, déambuler dans les rues de certains quartiers, comme le quartier juif, il y a aussi de nombreux cafés et boutiques sympas, mais surtout il faut déambuler. Il faut se mettre des points phare, et se perdre dans les rues, s’arrêter dans les petits cafés, dans les petits restos.

A quoi un touriste doit faire attention ou qu’est-ce qu’un touriste doit éviter de faire à Budapest ?
C’est une ville qui est très sécurisante, il n’y a pas vraiment de délinquance. Par contre il faut faire attention aux vols à l’arrachée des sacs, ça m’est arrivé, et je ne suis pas la seule. Dans les restaurants il faut être vigilent quand on pose sa veste sur la chaise de ne pas se faire voler son portefeuille. Mais bon, c’est classique dans les grandes villes.

A quels programmes ou événements devraient participer un touriste qui se rend à Budapest?
Sziget, c’est superbe, le Festival du printemps, avec toutes ses manifestations variées, le festival juif en août. Il faut regarder le site de l’Office du tourisme pour connaître tous les petits festivals, les marchés, nombreux : au château, au Városliget…

Si le touriste a le temps de visiter les environs de Budapest, selon toi, où devrait-il aller ?
Il faut visiter Szentendre, d’autant plus qu’on peut s’y rendre en bateau, en vélo pour les courageux, ou en train, donc on n’a pas besoin de voiture. Puis Gödöllő, où se trouve le château de Sissi. J’ai beaucoup aimé me baigner dans le lac Hévíz, un peu plus éloigné de Budapest, au milieu des nénuphars. C’est surréaliste ! Et aussi suivre la boucle du Danube. Mais il y en a encore beaucoup à découvrir : nous aimerions faire une route de vins par exemple.

Quel est votre favori ...

- …… lieu à Buda?
Les collines, par exemple Normafa, en été aussi bien qu’en en hiver.

- …… lieu à Pest?
La place Vörösmarty, pour son dynamisme.

- …….café à Budapest ?
Művész, sur Andrássy.

- …….œuvre d'art architecturale?
Le Parlement, avec ses dentelles en calcaire.

- …….musicien ou groupe hongrois?
Eszter Bartók, Márta Sebestyén, Les 100 violons de Budapest (100 tagú cigányzenekar).

- …….statue à Budapest?
Le groupe des personnages avec les parapluies à Óbuda.

- …….parc de la ville?
Városliget, et l’île Margit.

- …….place pour sortir?
Alcatraz pour la bonne musique et pour son ambiance bien sympa.

- …….personnalité hongroise?
Sándor Márai, l’écrivain.

- …….l'histoire de Budapest?
Une histoire qui s’est répétée plusieurs fois à mon arrivée à Budapest quand je faisais mes courses au marché. Je ne parlais pas un mot de hongrois et je montrais 3 avec mes doigts signifiant que je voulais 3 fruits et je repartais avec 3 kilos car je n’osais rien dire. Ça m’a fait vite comprendre qu’il fallait apprendre les rudiments de la langue hongroise.

Read Sylvie's blog posts here >>

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Read here in English

When was the first time that you were in Budapest?
Since our move to Budapest in July 2009.

Before you visited Budapest, what did you think of the city?
I had heard about Hungary in connection with famous people such as Vasarely and Ferenc Liszt, as well as dental tourism, but I didn’t know much about Budapest. Right from the moment I knew we were coming here, I looked up the Tourism Office website to get more information.

Why did you decide to set yourself up in Budapest?
My husband was transferred to the French embassy in Budapest.

What is your occupation in Budapest?
I'm not working and I have a son aged six and a half, who takes up a good part of my time. I volunteer for the French association Budapest Accueil, which brings out a newsletter every two months. I write the cultural and events listing (exhibitions, concerts, festivals, traditional events...) covering Budapest in particular and in a broader sense Hungary by selecting the photos!

Where do you live in Budapest?
I live in the Buda hills, in District II/A, close to the Lycée francais.
What experience would you regard as your biggest culture shock in Budapest?
Culture shock is a pretty big word. I had never been to an Eastern European country before. I wasn’t aware of the impact of communism on the architecture of the city.

What do you like in Budapest?
First of all the architecture, which is attractive and diverse. I also like the richness of the cultural events, and the many festivals. I also appreciate the cost of living, which is of great interest to us French. I also like the temperament and the pace of live. Here there’s time to look after yourself – go to the baths, to relax – whereas in France you’re always in a hurry. I also feel that Budapest is a city on a human scale. Unlike capitals such as Paris, you can easily move around. The city is surrounded by hills; there’s a bit of the country in the city and the city in the country. My family and I live in a district of Buda and you’re really in the countryside.

What don’t you like about Budapest?
There’s not a lot that bothers me. Sure, the language isn’t easy and I confess that I haven’t made much of an effort, above all because it’s not like any other. Although people are very polite, very kind, I find that they are a bit resigned, a bit fatalistic. I think it’s a pity that many magnificent buildings, houses in particular, are falling into ruins although some of them are part of the city’s heritage. To give you an example, after we got here we were strolling on Andrássy, not far from Liszt tér, and noticed the wooden scaffolding holding up the buildings and we thought it was temporary. In France it’s put up basically while work is in progress to stop things falling onto people. In Budapest it’s permanent and stays there even when the work is finished. But that doesn’t pose any problems personally (laughs).

What is there in Budapest that doesn’t exist at home?
The baths culture, which we don’t have at all. It’s true that there’s nothing like it in France as there is in Budapest! Here there’s a state of mind where you can take the time to stay there for several hours. Most French people don’t go to the baths much, and even less to outdoor baths in the winter! We don’t any more have a lake like Lake Balaton, the biggest in central Europe. And there’s the atmosphere of the “kert”, those open-air cafés set up in gardens or the courtyards of old buildings, where the music gets you going. I also appreciate the richness, the variety of the styles of architecture: here you can find baroque, art deco...

How are the inhabitants of Budapest compared to your compatriots, and how are they different?
Their slightly pessimistic side. Even though Budapesters are polite and respectful in their general behaviour, which I like a lot.

Do you speak Hungarian?
Pot really, except yes, no, thank you, good day, goodbye and various shopping words, for survival from the food point of view.

Which Hungarian, or thing from Hungary, is the most famous in France?
Oh, there are different things! Definitely our president, Nicolas Sarkozy. In another setting I’ve known Rubik’s cube since it was created and it was a revolutionary toy. There are the composers Liszt and Béla Bartok, and for the younger and more dynamic population, the very well-known Sziget Festival, which is featured in the French news. I’d heard about it before I arrived in Budapest.

How do you think Hungary can benefit from the presidency of the European Union?
It can benefit on several levels. About 500 events (meetings of experts in defence, culture, the sustainable environment, economics...) will be organised in the political arena. Media presenters have been focusing on Hungary, and especially on Budapest. All this will have a direct impact on the economic revival, because all the participants have to be accommodated. In parallel, the city will organise events, exhibitions – things that have created a cultural dynamism. If Budapest profits from the media attention by capitalising on its cultural riches, an increase in the number of tourists in Budapest and in Hungary in general will follow over the years to come. Last year, while I was still in France, I was watching the European swimming championships that were being held in Budapest. I thought it was a pity that most of the images transmitted of Budapest were very focused on dental tourism. Knowing the city, I’ve decided the French can’t share with me the charm and romanticism of this magnificent city – in short, make them want to visit it.

What do you think is the season when you should visit Budapest?
Winter lets people a bit older, who don’t like the summer heat and love the baths in the winter, to gather here. I don’t go to the baths when it’s 38 degrees in the summer; it's already hot. Now, in winter, with snow everywhere, it's superb. In winter you must go to the opera or try the cakes in cosy cafés. In spring and summer you can avail of other events; the wine festival, Városliget, the castle, Hollókő or the Sziget Festivál. I’ve waited for the January-February period, which is quiet from the cultural point of view, like most cities.

For how long should you come?
A week is enough to visit the city itself without hurrying, to get an impression. If you want to visit the surroundings you should come back and make another trip!

Is it better to stay in Buda or Pest?
I’d say that to make the most of what’s on it’s better to be in Pest. Or in Buda, close to the Danube.

What are the curiosities that you simply must see?
The district around Buda Castle; go for a night at the opera; Parliament, even if the visit is a bit frustrating – it only lasts about half an hour and you don’t see too much, though you see the Holy Crown, it’s true, and you visit the big meeting hall, but when you know there are 680 rooms you’d like to see a few more. You must go to Városliget and see the castle that shows several styles; the Széchenyi baths, that’s obvious, and afterwards the many little cafés too, and for children there’s the zoo and lots of other attractions.

What are the hidden treasures of Budapest (which many people don’t know but which are worth knowing)?
You must take the time to look upwards and see the facades of the buildings and discover the hidden beauties of the architecture. You shouldn’t wait to go into the courtyards, to admire the glazed doors, the stained glass - though it's not always easy because of the entry codes. When you've gone to the Hilton, in the Castle District, you'll be agreeable surprised to discover the ruins of a mediaeval monastery in the inner courtyard. Now that's a hidden treasure. There are also quite astonishing caves. How can you have 30 kilometres of caves in one city?!

What would be the ideal weekend city break in Budapest?
The Széchenyi baths is top of the list; riding on the no. 2 tram, which lets you have a view of Buda and Pest at the same time, stroll around the streets of some of the districts, such as the Jewish Quarter, where there are many nice cafés and little shops, but above all you must walk around. You should go in all points of the compass, get yourself lost in the streets and stop in the little cafés and restaurants...

What should a tourist watch out for, or what should a tourist avoid doing in Budapest?
This is a very safe city; there really isn’t any delinquency. On the other hand, you have to watch out for bag-snatchers – it’s happened to me and I’m not the only one. You must be on the lookout when you go into a restaurant and put your jacket over a chair that you don’t get your wallet stolen. But OK, that's typical in big cities.

Which events should one attend while staying in Budapest?
Sziget is superb, the spring festival, with all its varied shows, the Jewish festival in August. You must look at the Tourism Office website to get to know all the little festivals, and the markets – lots – the castle, Városliget…

If a tourist has time to visit the area around Budapest, where do you think they should go?
You must visit Szentendre, especially as you can get there by boat, by bike if you’re feeling brave or by train, so you don't need to have a car. Then there's Gödöllő, where you can see Sissi's palace. I really love bathing in Lake Héviz, a bit further from Budapest, surrounded by water-lilies – it’s surreal! And also you can follow the Danube bend. But there’s still so much to discover: we like going on one of the wine trails, for example.

What is your favourite...

- …… place in Buda?
The hills, such as Normafa, as nice in summer as in winter.

- …… place in Pest?
Vörösmarty Square, because of its dynamism.

- …….café in Budapest?
Müvész in Andrassy.

- …….piece of architectural art?
Parliament, with its limestone lacework.

- ……. musician of Hungarian band?
Eszter Bartók, Márta Sebestyén, the 100 violins of Budapest (100 tagú cigányzenekar).

- …….statue in Budapest?
The group of people with umbrellas in Óbuda.

- …….park in the city?
Városliget and Margit Island.

- …….place to go out to?
Alcatraz, for the good music and really nice atmosphere.

- …….Hungarian person?
Sándor Márai, the writer.

- …….story of Budapest?
A story that’s been repeated several times since my arrival in Budapest was when I was going round the market. I didn’t speak a single word of Hungarian and I showed three with my fingers, showing that I wanted three fruits and I left with three kilos because I didn’t dare say anything. That made me realise quickly that it’s necessary to pick up the basics of Hungarian.

Read Sylvie's blog posts here >>

Interview with Christian - Round 2

2011-01-04T07:00:00.000-08:00

Read below in English

Was kannst du uns über deine erste Erfahrung als Budapest Ambassador erzählen?
Obwohl ich schon seit zwölf Jahren hier lebe, ist Budapest ist für mich neu entstanden. Ich mache Fahrradtouren für Touristen, daher habe ich einen guten Überblick von allem was es hier so gibt. Jetzt bin ich aber mehr in die Tiefe gegangen und habe hinter die Fassaden geschaut. Ich habe sehr viel Neues erlebt und gesehen. Ich war in vielen Museen und kulturellen Einrichtungen, und habe erkannt wie vielseitig das Angebot in dieser Stadt ist. Budapest ist so eine Stadt, die man immer wieder neu entdecken kann.

Warum hast du dich entschieden ein zweites Mal Budapest Ambassador zu werden?
Ich möchte das, was ich beim ersten Mal erfahren und gelernt habe jetzt beim zweiten Mal nutzen. Außerdem macht es einfach Spaß, zusammen mit einer internationalen Gruppe Budapest zu entdecken, in Ausstellungen zu gehen, mit einem Schnellboot über die Donau zu fahren oder einfach mit netten Leuten über Budapest und mit Budapest zu diskutieren.

Was war dein erfolgsreichster Moment als Budapest Ambassador?
Ein persönlicher Erfolg war, dass ich meinen Eltern Budapest auf unglaublicher Weise näher zeigen konnte. Für meine Familie bin ich nach zwölf Jahren in Budapest richtig angekommen. Meine Eltern konnten erkennen, dass ich mich in Budapest richtig integriert habe. Außerdem habe ich durch die neue Broschüre New in Budapest, für die ich auch selber geschrieben habe, viel neues, vor allem über das moderne Budapest gelernt. Ich habe auch gelernt, dass es mir wahnsinnig Spaß macht jede Woche Blogs zu schreiben, und dass ich meine Emotionen über Budapest in schriftlicher Form gut ausdrücken kann. Budapest ist für mich eine sehr inspirierende und emotionale Stadt. Budapest: „powered by emotions“ oder eben Stadt der Sinne!

Hast du irgendwelche neuen Ideen für das zweite Mal?
Ich finde, wir sollten noch mehr Veranstaltungen gemeinsam als Gruppe machen. Ambassador heißt ja auch Vertreter oder Botschafter. Das heißt, dass wir wirklich durch Schreiben, oder vielleicht Arbeit im Tourismusbüro oder auf Messen, Budapest vertreten. Falls aus unseren Ländern Autoren, Journalisten oder ein Fernseh-Team nach Budapest kommen sollten, und darüber schreiben wollen, sollten wir sie auch unterstützen und als Ansprechpartner da sein. Ich finde, wir könnten etwas operativer arbeiten.

Welche Veränderungen hast du in den letzten zwölf Jahren in Budapest bemerkt?
Budapest ist normaler geworden. Das kann man positiv und negativ sehen. Normaler heißt hier Europäischer. Es gibt mehr Kontrolle, mehr Regeln. Als ich hierher kam, war Budapest für mich die Stadt der Freiheit. Ohne Regeln, ohne rote Ampeln, ohne Sperrstunden. Jeder konnte mit wenig Geld Wohnungen kaufen und Cafes öffnen. Es war die Stadt der Möglichkeiten. Mit dem EU-Beitritt kamen viel mehr Regulierungen, jetzt wird es jedes Jahr ein bisschen restriktiver. Das tut mir ein bisschen leid, aber es gibt dabei auch Vorteile. Was jetzt Alltag ist, so wie Telefon, Strom, Gas, Internet, war damals eher unzuverlässig. Die Freiheit hatte einen Preis – ein bisschen Chaos. Jetzt gibt’s weniger Chaos, gewisse Dinge sind einfacher geworden, es gibt mehr Lebensmittelvielfalt, es gibt von allem mehr. Alles ist aber auch viel teurer, kommerzieller und organisierter geworden. Allerdings immer noch nicht so wie im Westen. Budapest ist nach wie vor eine einzigartige Stadt.

Von deinen Radtouren mit Budabike.com, hast du sicher viel Erfahrung mit Touristen in Budapest. Kannst du uns von diesen erzählen?
Am Anfang war ich selber eigentlich gegenüber Budapest eher kritisch eingestellt. Ich habe gedacht, die Leute seien zu unfreundlich, der Service schlecht und man wird manchmal nicht korrekt behandelt. Und dann habe ich angefangen diese Touren zu organisieren, und habe jeden Tag mit Touristen gesprochen, und da höre ich meistens: “Wahnsinn, die Leute sind so nett, das Essen ist gut, die Preise sind fair, tolles Angebot, tolle Museen….“ Es kommt auch drauf an ob der Tourist positiv den Tag beginnt. Ich finde, dass sie zu 90% begeistert sind. Budapest gefällt ihnen, weil es authentisch ist. Es ist ein bisschen so wie bei uns in den achtziger Jahren. Ein bisschen Nostalgie ist auch dabei, auch von der Schönheit der Stadt und dem Kontrast der renovierten Gebäude zu den nicht renovierten Gebäuden sind sie beeindruckt. Man kann sich als Tourist auch sehr einfach durch die Stadt bewegen. All das sind Dinge, die den Touristen positiv beeindrucken. Und dann gibt es natürlich auch die Thermalbäder.

Würdest du Touristen den Rat geben, eine Tour zu machen?
Ich finde es ist eine gute Idee, Touren zu machen, damit man auch gute Tipps bekommt und nicht nur auf der Váci Straße herumsitzt. Danach sollte der Tourist aber individuell weiter gehen und Budapest entdecken.

Was sollten Touristen, die Budapest im Winter besuchen auf keinen Fall verpassen?
Die Thermalbäder! In Budapest kann man ganzjährig im freien schwimmen, in bis zu 40 Grad heißem Wasser. Diese Badekultur darf man nicht versäumen. Man sollte auch mal durch die Wälder hinauf nach Normafa fahren – da kann man auch in der Stadt Natur erleben! Außerdem kann man auf der Margareten Insel, vor allem wenn da Schnee liegt, wunderschöne Winterspaziergänge machen. Besonders einladend im Winter sind die Museen, und zwar nicht nur die bekanntesten Museen. Es gibt sehr viele weniger bekannte Museen, wie das Feuerwehr-, oder das Dreher Bier Museum. Übrigens für Touristen: mein spezieller Tipp ist es, euch in irgendeine Straßenbahn zu setzen, wie z.B. 2, 27 oder 28 und z.B. nach Kőbánya zu fahren. Das kostet 320 HUF und ist einmal Sightseeing ganz anders!

Wo kann man in Budapest einen guten Glühwein trinken?
Man sollte natürlich den Weihnachtsmarkt am Vörösmarty tér besuchen, wo es auch sehr guten Glühwein gibt. Im Winter bietet eigentlich fast jedes Cafe das Schild forralt bór (Glühwein). Auch das hat sich verändert – vor zwölf Jahren gab es das viel weniger.

Ungarn übernimmt im Jänner die EU-Präsidentschaft. Welchen Effekt wird das deiner Meinung nach auf Budapest und Ungarn haben?
Es ist eine tolle Gelegenheit für Budapest, sich Europa zu präsentieren. Die Ungarn werden vielleicht besser verstehen, was Europa ist und was es für sie bieten kann, welche Vor- und Nachteile es hat. Wir leben in einer Zeit, wo vieles unüberschaubar und kompliziert ist. Alles ist sehr kommerziell und globalisiert. Ungarn ist dagegen klein, kompakt und überschaubar. Es hat auch sehr viele Einzigartigkeiten (Hungarikums). Die Globalisierung ist in Ungarn noch nicht so spürbar. Ungarn kann zeigen, dass auch in einer globalisierten Welt ein Land mit einzigartiger Sprache und Kultur die oft unpersönliche und schwer verständliche EU bereichern kann.

Was ist dein Lieblings…

…Ort in Buda?
Bin kein großer Fan von Buda. Aber Normafa.

…Ort in Pest?
Ich liebe Pest. Den ganzen 500 Meter Umkreis von meiner Wohnung, Király utca und das Szechenyi Bad.

…Cafe in Budapest?
Műterem Kávézó, Tavaszmező utca.

…Gebäude oder Architektur?
Művész Palóta (Palast der Kunst).

…Ungarische Musikanten, Sänger, Bands?
Ich höre kaum ungarische Musik. Na ja, doch, ich war einmal in einem Konzert von Péterfy Bori, und ich liebe sie.
…Statue in Budapest?
Imre Nagy Híd, Kossuth tér.

…Park in Budapest?
Am Budaer Burgberg gibt es viele kleine Gärten oder Parks, die kaum jemand kennt, wo oft, auch im Sommer, wenn überall Touristen sind, niemand ist.

…Party Ort?
Minyon oder Ötkert.
…Ungarische Persönlichkeit?
Szt. István: Der erste ungarische König. Er hat ein tolles und einzigartiges Land begründet, das zu meiner Heimat geworden ist.

… Geschichte aus Budapest?
Die Geschichte wie angeblich die Széchényi Brücke gebaut wurde. Der Vater von Graf Széchényi war schwer krank in Buda, und Graf Széchényi war in Pest. Er wollte seinen Vater noch einmal besuchen, aber wegen dem Eis auf der Donau konnte er nicht rechtzeitig rüber. Deshalb hat er sich entschieden, die Széchényi Brücke zu bauen.

Read Christian's blog posts here >>

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Read here in English

What can you tell as about your first term as a Budapest Ambassador?
Although I have lived here for twelve years, this activity allowed me to experience Budapest in new dimensions. Because I organise bike tours for tourists, I have a good overview of what happens in the city. Now, I have managed to go more into the depth and to look behind the façade. I have made many new experiences and seen lots of new things. I have been to museums and various institutions, making me realize how multi-faceted the cultural offering of the city is. Budapest is a city where there is always something new to explore.

Why have you decided to start a second term as a Budapest Ambassador?
Going into my second term, I want to use everything that I learned and experienced during my first time as a Budapest Ambassador. In addition, it is simply lots of fun to explore Budapest together with an international group, visit exhibitions with them, racing with a speedboat over the Danube, or discuss Budapest with people or engage in discussions with people from Budapest.

What was your most successful moment as a Budapest Ambassador?
A personal success for me was that I was able to bring Budapest incredibly close to my parents, which means that after twelve years, I finally managed to make my family understand that this is my new home. My parents realized that I could really integrate into the city. In addition, I learnt a lot, especially about modern Budapest, through the new brochure “New in Budapest”, to which I myself have also contributed. I also learnt that it is a huge pleasure to write a blog every week and that I am able to aptly express my feelings regarding Budapest in written form. For me, Budapest is a very inspiring and emotional city. Budapest – “powered by emotions” or “city of the senses”!

Do you have any ideas for your second term?
I believe that we should organize even more events together as a group. To be an ambassador means to stand for something, to represent something. In this case, we write articles or work in the tourism office or at fairs, representing Budapest. When there are authors, journalists or TV crews coming to Budapest from our home countries and they want to write about the city, we should help them and assist them as reference persons. I also think that we could work a bit more operatively.

Of what changes have you become aware in Budapest over the last twelve years?
Budapest has become more normal, which you can see either as a positive or a negative development. By “more normal” I mean more European. There is more control, more rules. When I came here, Budapest was the city of liberty for me – without any rules, red lights or closing times and a city where everybody could buy a flat and open up a café without much money. It was a city of opportunities. When Hungary joined the European Union, more and more regulations came along and it becomes a bit more restrictive every year. I am a bit sorry about that, but it also has its positive side. What is a part of everyday life today like telephone, electricity, gas or Internet was somewhat unreliable at that time. Freedom had its price, namely a bit of chaos. Now we have less chaos, certain things have become easier, the food offering has become wider and there is more of everything. On the other hand, everything has become more expensive, more commercial and more organized. However, it is still not as strong as in Western Europe, and Budapest has remained a very special city.

Working as a tour guide with Budabike.com, you must have lots of experience with tourists in Budapest. Can you tell us more about that?
Initially, I myself had a rather critical attitude towards Budapest. I thought that people were too unfriendly, the service had poor quality and sometimes you were not treated fairly. And then I started to organize these tours, talking to tourists every day who in most cases say something like “It’s unbelievable, the people are so nice, the meals are delicious, prices are fair, the offering is great, and museums are excellent…” The question is also if the given tourist has had a good start into the day. I believe that 90% of them are really thrilled, and they like Budapest because it is authentic. A bit like with us in the ‘80s. In addition, nostalgia plays its part, and people are also impressed by the beauty of the city and the contrast between renovated and old buildings. As a tourist, it is also very easy to move around the city. These things really make a very good impression on tourists. And then, of course, you have all the thermal baths.

Would you suggest tourists to participate in a tour?
I believe it is a good idea, because you can get some really good tips and you do not need to sit around on Váci Street the whole time. After that, however, everyone should go and explore the city on their own.

Is there something that tourists visiting Budapest in winter should not miss in any case?
Thermal baths, of course. Budapest gives you the opportunity to swim outdoors at any time of the year, in 40°C hot water. The bathing culture is something that you should not miss at any cost. Something else that you simply must do is to drive up to Normafa through the woods and experience nature in the middle of the city. Margaret Island is an ideal place to take beautiful walks in winter, especially when it is covered with snow. A special winter attraction are museums, and not only the well-known ones. There are many of them that may be less renowned but still outstanding like the Fire Brigade Museum or Dreher Beer Museum. My special advice for tourists is to take any tram, for example lines 2, 27 or 28 and to make a trip, for example, to Kőbánya. It only costs HUF 320, and it is a very unique way of sightseeing.

Where can you buy good mulled wine in Budapest?
What you should do is of course visit the Christmas Market at Vörösmarty Square, where you can also enjoy very good mulled wine, but in winter time, practically every café bears the sign “forralt bor” (mulled wine). This is also a change; twelve years ago, it was not so typical.

From January, Hungary will be president of the European Union. How do you believe this will affect Budapest and Hungary in general?
It is an excellent opportunity for Budapest to present itself to Europe. Hungarians will maybe gain a deeper understanding of what Europe is, what it can offer them and what advantages and disadvantages it has. We live in a time when many things are hard to understand and complicated. Everything is commercialized and globalized; Hungary, on the other hand, is small, compact and manageable. It has also lots of specialties (also called “Hungarica”). Globalization is not that much present in Hungary yet. So now Hungary has a chance to show that even in a globalized word, a country with a special and unique language and culture can also enrich the often impersonal and hard-to-understand EU.

What is your favourite...

...place in Buda?
I am not really into Buda. But if I have to name one, it would be Normafa.

...place in Pest?
I love Pest. The neighbourhood within a 500-meter radius of my flat, Király Street and Széchenyi Bath.

...café in Budapest?
Műterem Kávézó, Tavaszmező Street.

...building or architecture?
Művészetek Palotája (Palace of Art).

...Hungarian musicians, singers, bands?
I am not listening that much to Hungarian music. Once went to a concert of Bori Péterfy, and I really loved her.

...statue in Budapest?
The Imre Nagy Bridge at Kossuth Square.

...park in Budapest?
On the Castle Hill in Buda, there are many small gardens and parks that hardly everybody knows and which are vacant even in summer time, when everything is full of tourists.

...party place?
Minyon or Ötkert.

...Hungarian person?
St. Stephen, the first king of Hungary. He established an excellent and unique country, which became my home.

...story from Budapest?
The alleged story about the building of the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. Count Széchenyi’s father is supposed to have been in Buda, seriously ill, and Count Széchenyi himself in Pest. He wanted to see his father one more time before he died, but as the Danube was frozen up, he could not get to the other side, so he decided to build the Chain Bridge.

Read Christian's blog posts here >>

Interview with Scott from New Zealand

2011-01-04T05:48:00.000-08:00

Getting to know you…

When did you first visit Budapest?
1999. The first three times I came was to write nightlife guides for Budapest In Your pocket.

What did you know about the city before visiting it?
Well, just the usual stuff, Tokaj, Sissy, baths. I was really excited to come here. I was living in Krakow at the time and it’s a beautiful city but, especially ten years ago it was quite provincial and isolated. I felt that Budapest would be more of an international place. Even ten years ago, there were really good sushi restaurants here!

Since when have you been living in Budapest?
I finally decided to move here a few months ago, but I’ve been living here part time for the last ten years. I’ve also made a little film here and I know this city inside out.

Why did you decide move to Budapest?
When I worked for InYour Pocket Guides, I was eventually promoted to manager, and I started setting up new guide books in different countries. I had to pick somewhere in this region to live, and I’d made some good friends here, I loved the nightlife. I still think this is the London of Central Europe, and it’s really central in central Europe, so I ended up moving here. Now I’ve been coming back and forth for the last ten years.

What are you doing in Budapest?
I’m a freelance guy. I’m a writer – I have a children’s novel coming out next year. I’ve also been working on two scripts for 3D animated films, one being produced in Austria and one in New Zealand, so I tele-commute a lot. I also write little blogs about Budapest. I go to auditions and occasionally get parts – two years ago I played a Russian spy for Ridley Scott. And recently, Ildiko Enyedi used me as an FBI agent. I do all the secret agents. The fat, old ones, not the young James Bond ones.

What did you experience in Budapest as a cultural shock?
Nothing, but I’ve culturally shocked some people. When I first came here, I was looking for directions, and an elderly gentleman came up to try to help me. He asked me “Deutsch?” and I said “nem” and he said “Angolul? London?”, meaning did I come from New Zealand and I said “nem, New Zealand”. At that point he started walking around me as if I was an exhibit at a museum. “So that’s what they look like huh?” or something to that effect.

What do you like about Budapest?
There’s such a rich cultural life. You can go to an exhibition or an opening or a book signing or a show every night of the week. I’m also fascinated by Hungarian history – I’ve written about it and I’ve got some projects that I’m developing right now. One’s about Bálint Balassi the 16th century poet. I’m calling him Valint Balassa. Anyway I feel like you can always keep peeling back the layers and learning more about the city all the time. At the same time, it’s a real city kind of city. It has neon lights and traffic and cheap glamour, it’s not too big and not too small. You can get almost anywhere in 20 minutes. The public transport’s great.

What do you not like about Budapest?
Forget it, nothing! Alright, perhaps customer service isn’t all that it could be, but so what?! Sometimes I look for things in stores that aren’t there, like for example Pear’s soap, little things like that, but I can live without Pear’s soap. And it’s hard to find good fresh oysters. The thing is, when you’re in love with someone, you might be aware that they have faults, but you’re in love with them and you don’t care. And that’s kind of how I feel about this place.

What does Budapest have that your home land does not?
Pretty much everything that matters to me. They’re extremely different places. The nature’s spectacular in New Zealand, but the reality is that most people are living fairly suburban lives. I’m an urbanite myself, and here I love the magnificent history and the fantastic buildings. Some Kiwis and Brits say they like animals more than people – well I like some buildings more than people.

What are people living in Budapest like compared to your own nation? What is the difference between them?
I went to a fashion show the other night, and I suddenly noticed how quiet it was, even though there was a crowd of people. It was a very well-mannered crowd. I’m not saying that this doesn’t exist in New Zealand, but I particularly noticed here how well-mannered people are. It’s also important here to make personal connections, especially with potential work partners. Meetings are about drinking coffee together and getting to know each other, and if you can find that personal connection, it serves you well later on.

Can you speak Hungarian?
My Hungarian’s appalling. I am trying to learn. Did you know that Franz Liszt didn’t speak any Hungarian? His native language was German. He tried to learn some Hungarian, but realized it was just too difficult. At the same time though, he was so inspired by Hungarian culture, but he just couldn’t learn the language. Not that I’m putting myself in his shoes, but this is exactly how I feel. I’m fascinated by the place, but I am on the outside of it because it’s such a hard job trying to learn the language.

What/who is the most famous Hungarian person or thing in your country?
We had a Member of Parliament, Nandor Tanczos, who was of Hungarian ancestry. He had long dreadlocks and was very much in favour of legalizing marijuana. I also had a friendly acquaintance whose name was Marton Csokas, who’s a successful Hollywood actor now. I used to know him when he waited on tables. I caught up with him at a wine festival a couple of years ago. He’s done very well.

How do you think Hungary and Budapest can profit from the EU-presidency project?
Ra ra ra I hope it’s great. I don’t know anything about politics, but I am only a tourism ambassador.

Questions to help tourists:

In your opinion when is it worth visiting Budapest?
Anytime. The girls aren’t any less pretty in winter than they are in summer. The beer doesn’t get any more expensive. I’m a spring, autumn, winter person, I don’t like 30 + heat, so I actually enjoy this time of year. My favourite time of year is the lead up to New Year’s Eve. I know people get tired by this time of the year because they’ve been working, but there’s lots to see and lots of social life. It depends on your taste. It can get bitterly cold in January and February, but if you’re going to the opera, or to museums, if you’re sitting in cafes, meeting your friends, there’s something heart warming about that.

For how long is it worth visiting the city?
For the rest of your life! Well, you could do the big hits of Budapest in three or four days. But you could also stay much longer and keep discovering more and more. For example, when the Hungarians kicked the Turks out, they didn’t leave much behind. The baths are the obvious exception, but if you wander around the city you can discover other small traces of the Turkish occupation. The deeper you dig, the more you find.

Would you recommend booking an accommodation in Buda or in Pest?
Stay in Pest but make sure you see the big hits in Buda like the castle of course, but also Gül Baba utca with the old cobblestone streets. If you want to go out in the evenings, you want to be in downtown Pest.

Which sights are not to be missed?
At least one café like Centrál Kávéház, the baths, the nightlife, some of the kert bars, Heroes square, Liszt Ferenc tér, walking up and down Andrássy Street. I’d also put the Gozsdu Udvar on there, because I love that style of architecture. And you have to see the castle district.

Which are the hidden values of the city (which not many people know, although they should)?
One example are the little specialty stores. I’ve been interested in puppetry since I was a kid, and there’s a wonderful old puppet shop on Wesselényi utca.

What is an ideal Budapest weekend like for tourists?
You’d probably want to try to get to all the big hits that I mentioned, as well as the National Museum. You should also visit a good Hungarian restaurant. You’d do at least one night in the garden bars and of course the baths (I think Rudas is the one you have to see).

What do tourists have to avoid in Budapest and what do they have to be careful about?
Behave yourselves. Sometimes I see these lads on stag-tours spoiling the atmosphere. On the other hand, I saw one group of young guys who were watching the girls walk by on Liszt Ferenc tér, and it was like they were watching a cricket match. They politely applauded every girl that walked by. I thought that was fine, it was chivalrous. They weren’t acting like oafs. So don’t act like an oaf. Also, don’t change money on the streets, and if a cab doesn’t have a phone number on it, don’t get into it, they’ll charge like a wounded bull. If you’re a fat, middle aged American tourist and an attractive young blonde comes up to you and asks you to take her for a coffee, don’t do it. You could get yourself into a difficult situation. I don’t speak from experience by the way.

In which programme or event should tourist take part in Budapest?
I think the opera’s something worth going to. When you look at the prices of the tickets especially, and the standard is very high. Also, the atmosphere around St. Stephen’s day and the fireworks.

Which places should tourists visit, if they have time to travel around in the neighbourhood of Budapest as well?
I’ve been all over Hungary; Győr, Debrecen, Kecskemét, Pécs, Sopron. They all have something. I think Eger is really special, particularly because of its history. It’s a lovely quiet town and a nice place to go for a break. In some countryside places there are big mansions that are being turned into hotels, so there’s a lot to explore.

What is your favourite…

- place in Buda?
Kis Budagyöngye. I like that place, it’s so traditional with a pianist. And it is hard to beat the Castle district.

- place in Pest?
My home. Oktogon, Liszt Ferenc tér, that area.

- coffee house in Budapest?
I’m torn between Centrál Kávéház and Café Vian.

- building, architectural piece of art?
The Napoleon Údvar is my newest one.

- Hungarian musician or band?
Liszt and Bártok. And Anima Soundsystem. They remind me a bit of a New Zealand band called Headless Chickens. And Rezső Seress of course, who wrote Gloomy Sunday.

- statue in Budapest?
On Város utca there’s a statue from World War I. He looks like he’s throwing a hand grenade. It’s funny to think that my Grandfather fought soldiers in that same basic uniform in World War One. I like to think that now I’m living here he’d say “I’m glad things have sorted themselves out”. Also I love the statues of composers that decorate the front of the Opera house. I love the way that people leave flowers by their favourite composer. It symbolizes how that culture is still alive.

- park in the city?
The Városliget. I love the Hunyádi Castle. It’s also a pleasant walk from Andrássy.

- place for going out?
Depends on your mission. Once a week I head down to Vittula. There’s always a friendly face there, and it has a good mix of expat and Hungarian regulars. But it is a dive bar, so be warned.

- Hungarian personality?
Bálint Balassi. I just wrote a book proposal about him. He was a warrior poet – that’s what every man wants to be. He was a bit of a rogue and he wrote some of the first erotic Hungarian poetry, in the 16th century. Tony Curtis too. He was one of those rare actors who managed to be ridiculously good-looking and funny at the same time.

- Budapest story?
The story of my life – now I’m here I’m living the way I’ve always wanted to.

Read Scott's blog posts here >>

Budapest für Familien

2011-01-04T04:01:00.000-08:00

Budapest für Familien

Budapest ist eine sehr familienfreundliche Stadt, es gibt eine ausgezeichnete Kinderbetreuung staatlicher und privater Natur, internationale Kindergärten und Schulen.

Hier möchte ich einige interessante Programme oder Aktivitäten für Familien anführen, die man in Budapest unternehmen kann!

Im Millenaris (Palast der Wunder) und im Müpa (Kunstpalast) gibt es speziell am Sonntag spezielle Programme oder Betreuung für Kinder. Spielplätze, Grünzone und Teiche laden zum verweilen ein. Die Kinder können spielen und die Erwachsenen Kultur genießen, - oder auch umgekehrt.

Budapest als Welthauptstadt der Bäder besitzt natürlich spezielle Bäder für Familien wie das Romai Fürdö, das Palatinus auf der Margareteninsel oder ganzjährig das Erlebnis- und Wellnessbad Aquaworld mit speziellen Angeboten für Familien.

Der Normafahügel mit der Zahnradbahn, der Kindereisenbahn, dem Sessellift und Naturlehrpfaden ist natürlich das Naherholungsgebiet für Familien. Spaß in und mit der Natur ist garantiert.

Die Margareteninsel bietet auch vieles für Familien: Spielplätze, Grünflächen, Schwimmbäder und man kann sich Fahrräder oder Tretkutschen ausleihen, den Streichelzoo besuchen oder mit dem Minizug herumfahren.

Die Donau ist auch familienfreundlich, man kann an ihr spazieren oder Rad fahren, sich ein Kanu ausleihen oder eine Bootsfahrt unternehmen. Gerade die Kinder lieben ja Schiffe und das Wasser.

Und natürlich ist auch das Stadtwäldchen (Varosliget) ein Paradies für Familien, das mit Zuckerwatte beginnen und mit einer Achterbahnfahrt enden kann. Vergnügen gibt es im Vidámpark, Pinguine, Bären, Jugendstilprunk u.v.m. im Budapester Zoo, waghalsige Attraktionen im Fövarosi Nagycirkusz, Erholung oder fröhliches Schreien der Kinder im Szechenyi Bad und große Kinderspielplätze im Park. Und auch bald wieder eine Bootsfahrt im Sommer und Eislaufen im Winter am großen Eislaufplatz. Das nennen wir mal ein volles Programm für die ganze Familie. Und gleich in der Nähe auf der Andrássy Straße gibt es noch das weltberühmte Bábszinház, wo die Puppen spielen.

Kinder lieben ja auch die Eisenbahn, und die Väter vielleicht noch mehr. Ein Besuch im Magyar Vasúttörténeti Park lohnt sich auf jeden Fall. Man kann mit einer echten Dampflok fahren, historischen Wagons bewundern und Grünflächen zum Herumtollen gibt es auch.

Budapest liebt Familien und wir lieben Budapest!

by Christian Brandmayr

Thermal Baths - Melanie

2011-01-04T02:37:00.000-08:00

Everyone should try a Hungarian spa at least once. It really is a cultural experience quite different from anything you can find outside the region of Central and Eastern Europe. Budapest is known as the ’Spa City’ or ’Spa Capital’ because it has the highest number of thermal springs (118) within the city limits in the world. The word ‘spa’ in English conjures up images of relaxation, luxury and beauty treatments, but in Hungary this is misleading for most foreigners and the words ’thermal bath’ should be used instead, as the main function of so-called spas in Hungary has been to treat patients with long-term medical problems. Spas mean waters here – mineral waters, thermal waters, medical waters. Lots of research is done to determine which conditions and illnesses the waters are good for. However, in Budapest the baths are mainly recreational and most people only spend 2-3 hours in there. You get a 3 hour ticket automatically but can claim a refund if you stay for less time.

Although spas like Gellért and Széchenyi in Budapest have now been renovated, there was a time when the information provision and signage was so baffling that you might have problems a) knowing which ticket to buy, b) finding the baths! The changing rooms vary enormously and you may be offered the chance to pay extra for a ’luxury’ or cabin one. Sometimes, the procedure involves chasing around after a locker ’guardian’ who will eventually issue you with a locker and a number which you have to remember. However, once you eventually get in, the baths are truly beautiful in terms of architecture, and the warm waters are incredibly relaxing. The whole experience takes away all your aches and pains and can even feel meditative. There are also steam rooms and saunas, which are pretty basic but they do the job, You can pay extra for a short, brutal but effective Hungarian massage, or pay even more for a less authentic Thai or Swedish one (still cheaper than in most other countries though).
What is spa etiquette in Hungary, you may ask? Well, you are not forced to be naked like you are in Germany and Austria, but you might find yourself in a position where many of the local women or men ARE naked and entirely comfortable (and these are not the ’body beautifuls’ either – the majority of local visitors are over 60!). This is common in Gellért, Király, Lukács and Rudas, but women and men have separate sections or even different days (note: beware of the ‘men only’ nights if you are a straight man. They are sometimes more gay than advertised, and even my gay friends told me that they are quite full on!). This makes it difficult to enjoy the spa together as a couple. Széchenyi, on the other hand, is mixed and non-naked so it is the best bet for the modest and those who want to visit with husbands, children or guests (however children under 6 are not allowed because of the mineral content of the waters). If you forget your costume, they may offer you some kind of ’apron’ which does its best to protect your modesty, but fails miserably once you enter the water!

Don’t expect to find healthy, light, or organic food in the spas. Most locals will be tucking into deep fried lángos (a kind of savoury doughnut) washed down with a beer or an espresso and topped off with a cigarette. Medicine is curative rather than preventative here, so by the time elderly Hungarians get sent to the spas by their doctors, the damage is already done! However, if you were beginning to think that spas were for old folks and the medically challenged, think again. Once a month in the Rudas spa (Saturday nights) there is a Cinetrip party, where the whole spa is converted into a giant nightclub complete with DJs, bars, films and entertainment. Tickets need to be bought in advance from the Mercury theatre, or from the spa on the night, but it gets so busy it is better to buy in advance. I haven’t experienced this first hand, but my students and sister tell me it gets pretty wild and is mainly for the young and hedonistic! Some of the spas also open late at night until 10pm but remain disco free. The Rudas is sometimes open from 10pm until 3am at the weekends.

by Melanie Smith

Tourist Information Duel on Friday 17 December 2010

2010-12-16T07:11:00.000-08:00

Join us on Friday and check out what really goes on behind the scenes!

The competitors of the first round:
Christian Brandmayr from Austria, Touristic Ambassador of Budapest – living in Budapest for 12 years, owner of budabike.com organizing city tours by bike

László Paszternák from Budapest – touristic expert, editor of the Tourism Office of Budapestpublications on Budapest for ten years

Cast your vote – who gives better information?
Link: http://budapest-ambassador.blogspot.com/
Voting in the upper right corner

Where: V. Sütő u. 2 – Tourinform office at Deák tér

When: 17 December 2010. 10 a.m. – 1 p.m.

Interview with Melanie

2010-12-13T23:44:00.000-08:00

Getting to know you…

When did you first visit Budapest?

I came first in 1990. I came as a tourist, I was on one of those Interrail Holidays. I was travelling around Europe so I had about two or three days. I never thought I’d end up living here at that time.

What did you know about the city before visiting it?

I was only nineteen then. I didn’t really know too much. I think I knew that it was a beautiful city, full of beautiful architecture. Not much else, apart from the communist, socialist history.

Since when have you been living in Budapest?

I’ve been here for five and a half years, although I did visit again a few times between my first visit and finally moving here.

Why did you decide move to Budapest?

I was in a long distance relationship with a Hungarian, so when I had the chance to go on sabbatical I decided to come to Budapest to “try out” the relationship and the city for six months and, well, never left. The Hungarian is now my husband.

What are you doing in Budapest?

I work at Corvinus University as a lecturer in Tourism management, which is what I was actually doing in London. So I more or less transferred my job to do the same here as I did in English. Except that it’s in a Hungarian university, which means getting used to a new system.

What did you experience in Budapest as a cultural shock?

Interestingly they started coming a bit later. The language is the biggest shock I would say. The pessimism is a bit difficult for somebody like me, I’m quite optimistic and outgoing. People don’t smile as much as they do in other places, I found that a bit alienating. Although it’s actually much better since I’ve had children and also since I’ve started learning Hungarian.

What do you like about Budapest?

Oh, lots of things! The first thing is the way the city looks, the architecture, the atmosphere. I went to Vienna a couple of weeks ago, and when I came back I felt how warm the atmosphere in Budapest is. Vienna is beautiful too, but it doesn’t have such a warm feel about it. I like the feeling of chaos too. It’s not too extreme, it’s just enough to feel liberating or bohemian. It’s really child friendly. I love the spas, the cafes and now the people too. The transport is really good, even if Hungarians always say it isn’t.

What do you do not like about Budapest?

I don’t like the racism and the intolerance. It’s a bit anti-semitic, homophobic and anti-roma. All that is really hard for me because London is so multi-cultural. And I don’t think it’s getting better, actually I think it’s getting worse with jobbik and the right wing. I also dislike the obsession with illness. Somehow many people here are hypochondriacs – they’ll even shout at you in the street if they don’t think your child is dressed warmly enough. I think it’s cultural – visitation to doctors here is higher than in the UK. Somehow there’s a lot of talk of death and disease, which can be a bit depressing.

What does Budapest have that your home land does not?

People are much nicer with children. If you take your kids to a café or a restaurant you’re made to feel very welcome. In London they’d make you feel unwelcome or even tell you to leave. It’s more compact – it’s very easy to get around. The weather of course is much better. Six months of sun is pretty good.

What are people living in Budapest like compared to your own nation? What is the difference between them?

In England it’s easier to make friends more quickly. At work places people will often go to the pub or meet for lunch and get to know each other quickly. Here’s there’s not so much of that. But when you make Hungarian friends, although it might take a year or two, it’s a much deeper relationship. I also think people are more generous here with paying for things. The English in comparison are quite tight fisted. Here there’s a generosity of spirit, as well as in terms of money, even though people don’t have a lot here. Although they’re not quite so optimistic and light hearted. I miss British humour. I like Hungarian humour but it’s a bit too dark. It’s if you’re in the right mood. I think it’s also because they had very different histories. There’s a lot more to smile about in the whole of British history. Hungarians had a difficult time. Although I think the time’s coming to break away from that.

Can you speak Hungarian?

It’s at quite a good domestic level – I can speak to my mother in law. It’s definitely helped my family relations. I can manage in ordinary situations like going to my son’s nursery or talking to the other women in the playground. It’s not too bad. I can sustain a conversation for about half an hour. Although if I have to use it at work it’s very limited. I can probably understand about 70% of most Hungarians so I can read women’s magazines and understand about 70% of it. I did evening classes, a summer school, private lessons and then I tried to speak to people I know. My husband wasn’t much help we always speak English. There was never any point in speaking Hungarian because his English was a bit too good. I’m still ahead of my 4 year old which is good. But he’s now quite good.

What/who is the most famous Hungarian person or thing in your country?

We were playing a game with my family in England last Christmas, and they kept bringing up people like Rubik and Biro who my husband didn’t really know. It’s funny how in England these are the people we immediately think of when Hungarians are mentioned. They’re not the first thing people would think of here. Then there are also people like Zsazsa Gábor and Tony Curtis, who people might not realize are actually Hungarians too.

What do you think Hungary and Budapest can profit of the EU-presidency project?

I find Hungary a bit too inward looking. There’s definitely a Hungarian way of doing things and sometimes I wouldn’t say it’s the best way. I’m hoping that the EU presidency can make Hungary a bit more outward looking. There’s a lot of envy here of other places, but then the good practice isn’t really brought to Hungary or applied here. A progressive move towards Europeanization, internationalization without losing what’s really great about Hungary and its local culture will be a positive thing. I think it should put Hungary on the map in terms of tourism a bit more.

Questions to help tourists:

In your opinion when is it worth visiting Budapest?

Although Christmas is very nice I would recommend between March and October. I think spring is the nicest time. People should know that it's really really hot in July, and might be too hot for British people, for example. I wouldn't recommend coming in winter unless you really like Christmas and Christmas markets, or if you like going to museums and galleries. I'm not saying don't come in December, that's a good month, but maybe January and February are best avoided.

For how long is it worth visiting the city?

There is enough going on in the winter, to make it worth a visit, like for example the spas and cafés. Maybe just for a long weekend though. In the summer I think you need about a week. If you're a repeat visitor, there's always more to discover. If you come for the festivals in the summer and you want to have a look around the city too, you'll definitely need longer.

Would you recommend booking accommodation in Buda or in Pest?

I'm very much a Pest person. I think Buda's a beautiful place to live but I have no desire to be stuck up on a hill. I don't drive and I like to use public transport so I really have to be on the Pest side of the river. The flats here are about half the price of those in Buda too. I can understand why people want to be in Buda, it has a lot going on, and you can see the Castle and visit Normafa, but it's not as easy to access the city centre, which is especially tricky for tourists. It's best if they plan their trips and work out how to get there beforehand, as getting around Buda can be quite confusing. If it's really hot I think the Buda hills are a great place to be, but otherwise most of the main attractions are either by the river or in Pest.

Which sights are not to be missed?

The baths! You have to try at least one. Széchényi's my favourite, but Gellért is nice too. Everybody should also see the castle area because that's particularly beautiful, as are the views from up there. I like the area around Hösök tere and Andrássy út of course. If you've got kids the Város Liget is the best place because of the play house, the circus and the zoo. Boat trips along the Danube are also great. And as you're walking around the city, try to fit in at least some of the cafés. If people come for a short time I recommend getting on the hop on hop off sightseeing bus, and then you know what's there and you can always 'hop off' if there's something you want to see.

Which are the hidden values of the city (which not many people know, although they should)?

The ruin pubs are very popular amongst the locals by now, although tourists might not necessarily know about them. Even though new ones are springing up all over the place, the old ones are still around, which is really nice. I really like the eighth district, the area around the university. The architecture is fantastic. It's a great place for walking.

What is an ideal Budapest weekend like for tourists?

Start with the hop on hop off – a ticket lasts for 24 hours. If you like walking, start somewhere like Hösök tere and wander along Andrássy, taking in some of the museums and galleries and the park. Visit a couple of cafés along the way and stop off at Liszt Ferenc tér for lunch. If you then wander over the river up to the castle you'll be able to enjoy a lot of the architecture and a nice panoramic views from the castle hill. Spend half a day in one of the baths for sure – just make sure you check individual schedules, sometimes men and women are separated, or it's men or women only day. You might be able to visit a concert too, for example at the Palace of Arts. This is a little bit out of the way, but don't be put off, you can get to it quite easily.

What do tourists have to avoid in Budapest and what do they have to be careful about?

The ticket inspectors on the metro, who just wait around for you to buy the wrong ticket. If in doubt about which ticket to buy, ask, or buy your ticket at the ticket office. I wouldn't say you have to worry too much about crime though – not more than in other places. Also, bear in mind that there's no smoking ban here, so some pubs might be a bit smoky!

Which places should tourists visit, if they have time to travel around in the neighbourhood of Budapest as well?

The Danube Bend and Szentendre are great, but I really like Vác, I think it's underrated. I really like going there for a day.

What is your favourite…

- place in Buda?

Normafa for walking, and the railway

- place in Pest?

The area around Hösök tere and Városliget

- coffee house in Budapest?

I go to Tranzit Art Café close to Kosztolányi Dezső tér in Bukarest utca a lot as they have a nice little childrens’ play area and a fabulous carrot cake! It also used to be a bus station so the architecture is very interesting. I also like Centrál Kávéház and Gerloczy at the moment. Many of the ones I used to love going to, like the Lukács and Müvész, have been modernized recently and I don't really like them any more, which is a shame.

- building, architectural piece of art?

My favourite type of architecture is the art nouveau, but I really like the building of the ING bank. It's a nice piece of modern architecture. Also the Gresham Palace and of course the Széchényi bath building, which you can enjoy while relaxing in the bath, even if it's a bit kitsch.

- Hungarian musician or band?

I like the Hungarian folk songs and nursery rhymes a lot. I'm trying to learn the words of some of them at the moment as my son is always singing them! I also think Ákos is quite good, and Cserháti Zsuzsa's music is really quite beautiful.

- statue in Budapest?

I like the statue of Nagy Imre standing on the bridge, between the Parliament and Szabadság tér.

- park in the city?

Margit Sziget.

- place for going out?

I like to go to Liszt Ferenc tér and just hang out around there. You can also find some nice places in the side streets around Szabadság tér.

- Hungarian personality?

I quite like Geszti Péter, although he's just on the X Factor at the moment, I also heard him speak at a creative industries conference and he always has very interesting things to say about art, architecture and creative industries. He is also the inspiration between the annual ARC billboard exhibition and competition.

- Budapest story?

I was doing a bit of translation recently about classical composers, and I was reading about Mahler and his funny antics here in Budapest which was quite interesting. I also learned that Liszt didn't really speak Hungarian, even though he's become very famous here.

Melanie from the UK

Read Melanie's blog posts here >>

XMAS FAIRy Tales Tour - Scott

2010-12-08T04:48:00.001-08:00

On the 2nd December, the Ambassadors took a walk around a part of Budapest that is very familiar to most of us, but still coated in layer upon layer of history and legends. The Fairy Tales Tour by Budapest Underguide http://underguide.com took us around the Christmas markets, mulled wine in hand, where we heard about colourful folk superstitions and traditions. We visited an atelier in the Luxus department store, where a small team of designers was working hard on Hungarian women's haute couture. Later in the tour we talk a walk down one of my favourite old streets in downtown Pest; the very early 19th century Vitkovics Mihály street, with its lovely old antique store, ice cream shop, butchers and Hollo folk art gallery, which sells sweetly adorned jewellery, hope chests, candlesticks and more. It put this sometimes Scrooge like browser in the mood for some seasonal retail experiences, which was nice and unexpected.

by Scott Alexander Young

Hidden Treasures - Melanie

2010-12-08T01:06:00.000-08:00

Hidden Treasures of Budapest

There are a few places to which I like to take repeat visitors of Budapest who have seen all the main sites and attractions. Most of these are pretty well-known by local people but they would be considered to be fairly well ‘hidden’ for the majority of tourists.

Instead of the heavily visited and now expensive Liszt Ferenc Tér, I prefer to go to Raday Utca, especially as I work at the University nearby. This is a long attractive street of arty shops as well as cafés, bars and restaurants. The menus tend to be pretty cheap as many students also come here. The so-called ’ruin pubs’ (or rom kocsma) are also becoming legendary in Budapest. Many of these can be found in the old Jewish quarter in District VII, and they are bars or cafés which have developed in an ad hoc way in disused buildings and courtyards. There is music, dancing and sometimes film too, and the places are very atmospheric, bohemian and relaxed. Examples include Szimpla Kert (probably the best known even amongst tourists), the smaller but more intimate Mumus in Dob Utca, and Fogas Ház in Akácfa utca. The ship called the A38 on the Danube is also an atmospheric place for a drink, concerts, music and arts events. There is a changing programme which can be viewed on the website (http://www.a38.hu).

For a lovely walk outdoors by the river, the Kopaszi Gát is a newly regenerated area on the Buda side by the Lágymányosi Bridge. The whole area is landscaped in a very attractive way, there are pleasant walkways, paths for jogging and cycling, a couple of cafés with tasty menus, a childrens‘ playground and numerous sunbathing /or sledging spots for all weathers. It can get really busy here when the weather is good so it is hardly undiscovered, but it is still being developed so there is always likely to be something new.

Another walk which is very interesting for me is to go from Corvinus University at the end of Vaci Utca in Fővám Tér along the side of the Danube towards the Palace of Arts. There are a number of new developments springing up (a bit like the Docklands in London), including the creation of a complex which will house shops, restaurants and cultural institutions – the so-called „Covent Garden of Budapest“. There is also the Zwack Unicum Visitor Centre on the way.
One of my favourite alternative walks to the well-known Andrássy Avenue is the Városligeti Fasor parallel to Andrássy Avenue (near to M1 stop Kodály körönd or Bajza utca). It is a large avenue running towards the City Park or Város Liget and contains some of the most beautiful Art Nouveau and Fin de Siecle buildings in Budapest. Many of them are Embassies or Private Villas. Walking around the 8th and 9th Districts of Budapest, for example behind the National Museum is really fascinating as there a lots of hidden ‘gems’ of architecture, as well as cafés and bars. There are more and more vegetarian restaurants in this area which are hard to find elsewhere in Budapest. The Cökxpôn Ambient Cafe Theater Cultural Centre (Soroksári út 8-10) is a great place to chill out.

Finally, the Gozsdu Udvar between Király Utca and Dob Utca is becoming a really interesting place, as the dilapidated architecture and courtyards have been regenerated and now house some new shops and cafés. It is very atmopsheric for a wander or a visit to the weekend crafts market where there are lots of arty bits and pieces. There are also festivals sometimes, such as the Jewish Gastronomy Festival in November. specialty store, or Hungarian wine I hadn’t tasted before. I can only hope this enthusiasm is contagious.

by Melanie Smith

Hidden Treasures - Scott

2010-12-07T06:48:00.001-08:00

Hidden Treasures of Budapest

Hidden treasures of Budapest? This is a big subject!

I’m seeking out the hidden treasures Budapest all the time, and sometimes I come across a real find. For example, when I was making my docudrama, A Café in the Sky, my little production team and I went on a location scout in the Goszdu Udvar. The Goszdu is a series of interconnected, early 20^th century apartment buildings with a corridor running between them. It is like a miniature city in itself. When we shot there a few years ago, restoration work had not begun on the buildings. After securing permission to shoot there, we couldn’t wait to go and check the place out. It was a Saturday evening in October and we took flashlights with us. At one point we opened a door to an attic. There were fragments of an old children’s railway set, sepia photographs curling up at the corner and vintage ladies shoes lying among the rubble. A chill ran down my spine. It was like walking through someone’s memory.

The Goszdu has been restored now, but nevertheless, one feels the past is alive in Budapest, in a way that isn’t always the case in ‘western’ European cities. It’s one of the things that make this place so special. As you can see from some of the photos here, I like to snap pictures of old street signs and neon hoardings. If it were down to me, every single one of these would be preserved. If the past is truly a foreign country, count me in for permanent residence.

Another aspect of Budapest’s past that is hidden, or not so widely known, are the traces left behind of the Turkish occupation. Buda was the capital of Ottoman Hungary between 1541 and 1686. It’s been my observation that modern day Hungarians and Turks get along with a kind of special amicability reserved for former, bitter enemies. But at the time, the occupation was clearly resented. When the capital was liberated, just about every Turkish building was razed. Churches that had been used as mosques were converted back again, although a few mihrabs – the niches that face Mecca – remain. There’s one in the Inner City Parish church for example. Another, more obvious exception was the baths. The domed mosaic ceiling over the octagonal shaped pool at Rudas Baths dates from 1550. ‘We rather like the baths’, they must have decided, ‘the baths can stay’. Also in Buda, it’s an interesting climb up the medieval Gül Baba street, to come across the shrine to Baba. He was a Turkish dervish and holy man who died in Buda the same year the Turks occupied the city. Even to this day, his tomb is considered the northernmost place of pilgrimage for Muslims. He must have been well thought of by Hungarians too, as the tomb was spared destruction after the liberation of Buda in 1686. A few Ottoman headstones, like the ones pictured, remain in Tabán, in the 11th district. You can recognise them by their turbans and the wonderful calligraphy.

In any case, this is just to scratch the surface. Barely a week goes by that I don’t discover some interesting little back street, or specialty store, or Hungarian wine I had

by Scott Alexander Young

Martin Munkácsi exhibition - Scott

2010-12-07T05:17:00.000-08:00

My time as a Budapest ambassador got off to a great start on November 19, when I met all the other ambassadors at the Christmas Market on Vorosmarty ter. They're a great bunch, and so multilingual they rather put me to shame. We drank mulled wine and talked about the various paths which had led us to this city, our adopted home. A friend asked me not long after, rather facetiously I thought, if I wore a red sash and a row of medals for these occasions in my official capacity as ambassador. How silly. We did get a badge though, which brings out the green in my eyes, and accessorises my blazers and sports coats pretty well.

I was wearing it on the 26th, when we were invited to the Martin Munkácsi exhibition at the Ludwig Museum. In case you haven't heard of him, Munkácsi - no relation to the illustrious painter - was a photographer whose work was considered highly influential in the 1920s and 30s. He was a pioneer in what might be termed the golden age of photography, when the world was not such a small place as it sometimes seems to be now. His work and that of others like him, showed people in Idaho, Manchester or Budapest for that matter, what a Bedouin tribesman looked like, or the action on a beach in Copacabana. Not particularly interested in politics, Munkácsi instead appears to have been a bon vivant, more concerned with travelling the world, photographing everyone and everything from movie stars (Fred Astaire, Katherine Hepburn) to sporting action, to animals in highly contrived poses. The English language tour guide was passionate about her subject and very informative.

And this week, a 'Fairy Tale Tour' of Budapest. Well, for what more could one ask?

by Scott Alexander Young

Luca da Italia

2010-11-25T05:31:00.000-08:00

Read below in English

Presentazione

Mi chiamo Luca e vengo da Santa Maria Capua Vetere, una piccola città vicino Napoli. Mi sono trasferito a Budapest da due anni per stare con la mia ragazza. In Italia sono laureando Scienze della Comunicazione presso l’Università di Salerno. Conoscendo la città ho cominciato ad amarla, mi piace definirla “la più mediterranea delle non-mediterranee” per il calore dei suoi abitanti e la loro attitudine a godersi la vita.

Leggi i post sul blog di Luca qui >>>

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Read here in English

Introduction

My name is Luca and I am from a small town called Maria Capua Vetere, near Naples. I moved to Budapest two years ago, to stay together with my girlfriend. I’m a final year student in Communication Sciences at the University of Salerno in Italy. Knowing the city, I have started to love it, and I like to describe it as „the most Mediterranean amongst the not Mediterranean ones”, thanks to its warm-hearted inhabitants and their aptitude for enjoying life.

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Carlos de España

2010-11-24T05:19:00.000-08:00

Read below in English

Introducción

Carlos Rodero
Autor y director teatral

Carlos Rodero vive y trabaja en Budapest desde el año 2000. Nace en Barcelona, en 1965 y ya, desde muy pronto, no ha dejado de viajar y de vivir en distintas ciudades de España y Europa. Actualmente asentado en la capital húngara, desarrolla su carrera profesional en Hungría y dirige, junto a Daniela H. Faith, la compañía de danza-teatro Misero Prospero Project, compaginando su trabajo como director con otras actividades educativas, culturales y de divulgación de la lengua española.

Leer los mensajes de Carlos aquí >>>

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Read here in English

Introduction

Carlos Rodero
Author and Theatre Director

Carlos Rodero has lived and worked in Budapest since 2000. Born in Barcelona in 1965, he hasn’t stopped travelling since he was young and has lived in different cities in Europe and in Spain. At present he is based in the Hungarian capital, carrying out his professional career in Hungary and directing, alongside Daniela H. Faith, the dance and theatre company Misero Prospero Project, combining his work as director with other educational, cultural and promotional activities of the Spanish language.

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Sylvie de France

2010-11-23T05:14:00.000-08:00

Readin English below

Présentation

Depuis un an et demi que nous habitons à Budapest ma famille et moi-même sommes tombés sous le charme de cette ville. Tout d’abord par son incontestable beauté et ensuite par son ambiance qui nous convient très bien. Nous résidons côté Buda sur les collines dans une ambiance « country side ». On peut même faire du ski de fond, du planeur ou des randonnées à 2 pas de chez nous ! Il nous suffit de descendre de nos collines pour profiter de la vraie vie citadine avec tous ses avantages culturels et festifs. En bref, une capitale à taille humaine où il fait bon vivre avec des habitants discrets et chaleureux. Une ville où on se sent en sécurité.

Read Sylvie's blog posts here >>

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Read here in English

Introduction

In the 18 months that we have lived in Budapest, my family and I have fallen under this town's spell. First of all, thanks to its indisputable beauty and the resulting ambience, it suits us very well. We live on the Buda side, up in the hills in a « country » setting. It’s possible to ski, go gliding or mountain-biking just a couple of steps from where we live. We can just come down from our hills to take advantage of the real city life, with all its cultural and festive offers. In short, this is a human-sized capital where you can live well among its polite and warm inhabitants, a town where you feel safe.

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Christian aus Österreich

2010-11-22T05:08:00.000-08:00

See in English below

Einführung

Hallo,

Mein Name ist Christian Brandmayr, ich bin in Innsbruck, Österreich, geboren und bin 38 Jahre alt. Nachdem ich einige Jahre in Wien bei T-Mobile gearbeitet habe, zog ich 1998 nach Budapest, vorerst nur, um zu meiner ungarischen Freundin zu ziehen. Nach der Liebe zu einer hübschen Ungarin entstand auch die Liebe zu meiner neuen Heimatstadt Budapest, die ja ebenso sehr hübsch ist. Ich habe vorher in einigen anderen Ländern gelebt, wie z.B. Neuseeland, Mexiko, Argentinien, Brasilien und Venezuela, so spreche ich mehrere Sprachen und als letzte kam noch Ungarisch hinzu, die sich als große Herausforderung darstellte. Und nach all den vielen bereisten Ländern, wurde nun Budapest meine Heimat, die sich als beste Wahl für mich herausstellte.

Ich leite meine eigene Firma budabike.com, die Radtouren in Budapest und Ungarn anbietet, und Touristen es ermöglicht, Budapest mit dem Rad authentisch zu entdecken. Weiters schreibe ich Artikel für die Magazine Hungary und Balaton FUNZINE. Durch beide Aufgaben lerne ich ständig etwas über Budapest hinzu und auch durch meine Gäste während der Radtouren gibt es immer wieder neue Informationen. Allerdings wissen die Gäste oft relativ wenig über Budapest Bescheid, nur wenige kennen die (teilweise verborgenen) Schätze, hunderten Statuen, einzigartigen Sehenswürdigkeiten, Bäder, Parks, Höhlen, Ruinenpubs, Clubs… u.v.m. Durch die Arbeit für FUNZINE bin ich auch über alle Events und Festivals bestens informiert, die sind genauso bunt und vielseitig wie Budapest.

Budapest ist für mich eine Stadt der Kontraste und der Vielseitigkeit, wie auch das Leben der Menschen und Zugereisten hier. Man kann so vieles machen und erleben: Mit einem Sessellift auf einen Berg fahren, runter rodeln, mit dem Rad durch Plattenbauten rasen, wilde Tiere und Beeren entdecken, nach der Party in ein Thermalbad springen, an fast jeder Brücke der Donau abtanzen, oder dies auch auf Dächern, in Parks oder auf umgestalteten Parkplätzen tun, mit dem Schiff fahren oder Eislaufen, mehrere Inseln entdecken, Kanu fahren oder angeln, Festivals, Museen, Konzerte besuchen…

Die einfache Kombination all dieser Aktivitäten macht für mich das Geheimnis Budapests aus, die Nähe von Partys, Kultur, Wellness, Stränden, Sport, exzellenten Restaurants und vor allem die zahlreichen Bäder, die bei jedem Wetter ein wahres Vergnügen sind.

Und auch die Einstellung der Budapester, dass Arbeit nicht alles im Leben ist, sondern dass man sich es auch gut gehen lassen soll, trägt zu der einzigartigen Atmosphäre Budapests bei.

Budapest, für mich ein fast nie endender Urlaub, für Sie vielleicht der beste Ort für Ihren Urlaub!

Christian Brandmayr

Read Christian's blog posts here >>>

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Read in English here

Introduction

Hi, My name is Christian Brandmayr, I was born in Innsbruck, Austria and I am 38 years old! I worked as a project manager at T-Mobile Austria but then in 1998 decided to move together with my Hungarian girlfriend to Budapest! I have been living, studying and working in countries like Italy, Mexico, Argentina, Brazil, Venezuela and Hungary and therefore I speak fluently German, English, Spanish, Italian, Hungarian and a bit Portuguese. Since 1998 I have been living in Budapest, what I chose to be the best place for my life after having visited many places!

I am running and owing a company, what offers cycling tours to discover Budapest and Hungary by bike (www.budabike.com) and I am writing the German part of Hungary and Balaton FUNZINE. Those two occupations give me a big knowledge about Budapest and about what is happening here. During the bike tours with my guests I noticed, that first of all most of the people don’t know a lot about Budapest and its countless sights, monuments or statues and (hidden) treasures and second during every tour I discover something new about Budapest, what also happens during my writing for FUNZINE!

For me Budapest is a city of contrasts and those contrasts are also giving Budapest a very special beauty and magic! It is a city of diversity and also life here is full of contrasts and diversity! You can discover wild animals on its hills, do a bike tour to Romai part, passing modern, socialist and even antique buildings, and you can party in countless places, on roofs, at parking lots or simply on an island and visit very interesting museums or the Opera. Hardly any other city has so many pools and spas, a real pleasure at any kind of weather conditions. The "easy" combination of parties, festivals, excellent restaurants, wellness, culture, sports... all so close to each other make Budapest so special for me!

Christian Brandmayr

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Melanie from the UK

2010-11-21T04:58:00.000-08:00

Introduction

I am a 40 year old Lecturer in Tourism Management and I have lived in Budapest for five and a half years. I work at Corvinus University. I came here on a sabbatical for six months and I haven’t left since! My husband is Hungarian and we have two little boys aged four and one called Levi and Ferdi. I have always loved Budapest as it encapsulates everything that I find interesting and exciting about Europe – history, heritage, architecture, classical and folk music and dance, a passion for gastronomy and wines, and a strange and beautiful language. I worked hard to learn Hungarian but I am still not as good as I should be. As long as I am still one step ahead of my four year old, I will be happy!

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Scott from New Zealand

2010-11-20T04:54:00.000-08:00

Introduction

After working in London, Auckland, Buenos Aires, Florence, Beirut, Vancouver, Bangkok and Seoul, probably my favourite city of all is Budapest. I’m a full-time writer who has penned scripts for British television, as well as travel guidebooks for people like Fodors and Eyewitness Guides. A film & TV actor in my spare time, I’ve played everything from a KGB spy to an Argentine party animal. My documentary A Café in the Sky - which is about the Hungarian legend of Gloomy Sunday – was broadcast recently on NZ television. To me, Budapest offers the unbeatable combination of a rich historical background mixed in with a very up-to-date urban pulse. I hope to share my knowledge and enthusiasm with people who appreciate both.

Read Scott's blog posts here >>>