Café Culture in Budapest

It would be worth coming to Budapest just to sample the café culture! It is equally pleasureable in summer basking in the sunshine outside or in winter enjoying the cosy atmosphere inside. It is a place for lingering, reflecting, people watching, reading, chatting, smoking (as there is no ban yet!). Coming alone is just as common and acceptable as coming with a friends or colleagues.

When I first came to Budapest as a visitor in 1990 the Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty Tér was THE place to go and a coffee and cake cost less than a EURO. It is a different story today, and although still stunning, the Gerbeaud is only really for tourists who want to spend double the amount for half the service quality. The same is true of the regenerated New York café which is gorgeous to look at but pricey by local standards and not very friendly. Some of my old favourites such the Müvész and the Lukács have recently been modernised and have taken on the glitzy characteristics of a wine bar rather than a café. The prices increased too and as a result, I no longer go there very much. Instead, I prefer to visit cafés like the Gerlóczy, which is tucked away behind Vaci Utca in a charming leafy square. It is reminiscent of a French-style café. Good lunchtime menu too. Centrál Café near Ferenciek Tere is also lovely. The service is friendly, the prices are low and the environment is beautiful. Auguszt café near to Astoria has a very special atmosphere and nice service. The little Ruszwurm café near the Matthias Church is a real gem if you can get in. It is very busy because of its proximity to the castle. I love the Ruszwurm Torta (pure chocolate heaven). If you see a Szamos café too (it is a chain), this will always be worth a visit, especially if you like marzipan and a quaint atmosphere. BUT my latest and most favourite café is the Alexandra Bookshop Café in the Párizsi Department Store on Andrássy Avenue. The ceiling frescos are incredible and almost detract from the deliciousness of the fruit tarts which are also outstanding!

For a more modern touch, I find the Duna Park café near Szent István Park a really relaxing place with a pianist at weekends. The cakes are amazing there! Déryné in Krisztina Tér in Buda has lovely décor and is a great place for brunch or afternoon tea. If you have children, then it is useful to have a play area. I really like Tranzit café just off Kosztolányi Dezső Tér as it used to be a bus station and has a bohemian arty atmosphere, but is also very child-friendly. The carrot cake is legendary. Having said that, unlike in England, all cafés tend to be child-friendly in Budapest as the Hungarians love children and don’t try to dissuade parents from bringing them to public places!

I could go on about the cafés in Budapest all day! One thing I would say is that there is really no need to go to the newer chain cafés like Costa, California or Coffee Company. I like these too, but in comparison they are over-priced with indifferent service and have no local characteristics. In the old days, it was impossible to get anything other than an espresso in a Hungarian café, but now the whole range is provided and you don’t need any elaborate explanations and gestures to get a Café Latte as I did when I arrived six years ago!

by Melanie Smith