Café Culture in Budapest

It would be worth coming to Budapest just to sample the café culture! It is equally pleasureable in summer basking in the sunshine outside or in winter enjoying the cosy atmosphere inside. It is a place for lingering, reflecting, people watching, reading, chatting, smoking (as there is no ban yet!). Coming alone is just as common and acceptable as coming with a friends or colleagues.

When I first came to Budapest as a visitor in 1990 the Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty Tér was THE place to go and a coffee and cake cost less than a EURO. It is a different story today, and although still stunning, the Gerbeaud is only really for tourists who want to spend double the amount for half the service quality. The same is true of the regenerated New York café which is gorgeous to look at but pricey by local standards and not very friendly. Some of my old favourites such the Müvész and the Lukács have recently been modernised and have taken on the glitzy characteristics of a wine bar rather than a café. The prices increased too and as a result, I no longer go there very much. Instead, I prefer to visit cafés like the Gerlóczy, which is tucked away behind Vaci Utca in a charming leafy square. It is reminiscent of a French-style café. Good lunchtime menu too. Centrál Café near Ferenciek Tere is also lovely. The service is friendly, the prices are low and the environment is beautiful. Auguszt café near to Astoria has a very special atmosphere and nice service. The little Ruszwurm café near the Matthias Church is a real gem if you can get in. It is very busy because of its proximity to the castle. I love the Ruszwurm Torta (pure chocolate heaven). If you see a Szamos café too (it is a chain), this will always be worth a visit, especially if you like marzipan and a quaint atmosphere. BUT my latest and most favourite café is the Alexandra Bookshop Café in the Párizsi Department Store on Andrássy Avenue. The ceiling frescos are incredible and almost detract from the deliciousness of the fruit tarts which are also outstanding!

For a more modern touch, I find the Duna Park café near Szent István Park a really relaxing place with a pianist at weekends. The cakes are amazing there! Déryné in Krisztina Tér in Buda has lovely décor and is a great place for brunch or afternoon tea. If you have children, then it is useful to have a play area. I really like Tranzit café just off Kosztolányi Dezső Tér as it used to be a bus station and has a bohemian arty atmosphere, but is also very child-friendly. The carrot cake is legendary. Having said that, unlike in England, all cafés tend to be child-friendly in Budapest as the Hungarians love children and don’t try to dissuade parents from bringing them to public places!

I could go on about the cafés in Budapest all day! One thing I would say is that there is really no need to go to the newer chain cafés like Costa, California or Coffee Company. I like these too, but in comparison they are over-priced with indifferent service and have no local characteristics. In the old days, it was impossible to get anything other than an espresso in a Hungarian café, but now the whole range is provided and you don’t need any elaborate explanations and gestures to get a Café Latte as I did when I arrived six years ago!

by Melanie Smith

The Merlin theatre is a little gem for foreign residents and visitors alike. It is tucked away behind a main road so it is easy to miss, but if you go down the street next to the lovely Gerlóczy Café the entrance is easy to find. The Merlin has a really special atmosphere which could best be described as arty and bohemian. This is partly created by the quirky decor, wall paintings, lighting and furniture. It is also cosy and intimate and if you have lived here for a few years like me, you are bound to bump into a few old friends in there. Even if you are not seeing a play, the bar is worth a visit as it is relaxed and serves tasty, reasonably-priced food. The play we saw has been running for a while and is called Pornography but is actually about a terrorist attack in London.

For me it had a lot of emotional resonance as I moved from London one day before the attack and I remember that day in time so clearly.The acting was superb and everyone was impressed, moved, shocked, and enthralled all at the same time. After the play we were treated to a kind of story-telling concert where a charismatic Black singer told a tale to the backdrop of jazz music. It was quite a unique experience and fairly unusual for Budapest. At the same time we enjoyed beers and tapas. Overall, this theatre is perfect for anyone whose Hungarian is not good enough to go to Hungarian theatres, for Hungarians who wants to see plays in English, and for anyone who enjoys an intimate arts venue with a great atmosphere.

by Melanie Smith

See Merlin's webpage here

Top Ten Winter Attractions

I love winter in Budapest, as compared to England it is what I would call a „proper” winter! That means that the likelihood of snow is high, and Budapest has many of those beautiful, clear days where it is freezing but the sky is blue. Another bonus is that Hungarians know how to heat interiors (unlike Brits!). It is rarely less than 25C anywhere indoors, and in many places anything more than a T-shirt is too much.....

My Top Ten Winter Attractions would include:

1) Ice-skating in the Város Liget or City Park. This takes place on a giant ice-rink in a location where there is a gorgeous view of the Vajdahunyad Castle. If you are a bit rubbish at ice-skating like me, then it helps to have a few mulled wines before you start! In winter 2010/2011 the rink may be closed due to renovation, in which case try the smaller ice rink on the top of WestEnd shopping centre.

2) Hanging out in the cosy cafés. I generally prefer the old-style Cukrászda like Central, Europa, Müvész, but I also like Farger, Déryné and Duna Park. The only problem in winter is that there isn’t a non-smoking ban in Hungary, so the smoke can be irritating.

3) Walking and sledging in the area known as the Kopaszi Gát which is a regenerated half island next to the Lágymányosi híd. There are a couple of cafés, childrens‘ playground, riverside beaches and lovely walkways.

4) The Budapest Christmas Market in Vörösmarty Tér (or Square). This seems to get better every year, with handcrafted goods, traditional Hungarian food and live performances

5) Sitting in the hot steaming waters of a spa. Széchenyi Fürdő is my particular favourite because of the beautiful buildings and the fact that you can sit outside surrounded by snow in your bikini!

6) Admiring the view of the whole city on a cold, clear day from the Castle area. If it gets too chilly, visitors can always pop in and visit the Labyrinth or head to the lovely old Ruszwurm café.

7) Indoor Playhouses for kids when it gets cold. There are so many great ones in Budapest, big and small. My favourite is the one between the zoo and the Circus (Állatkert Játszóház), but also good are Mazsola in Arany János Utca and the various Kölyök Parks in shopping centres (e.g. Mammut).

8) The Millenaris area behind Mammut. There is always something going on here in addition to the fantastic Palace of Miracles (Csodák Palotája), such as exhibitions and concerts. It’s best to check in magazines like Funzine for updated information.

9) Museums, but especially the Ludwig Museum and the adjoining Müpa (or Palace of Arts). In addition to modern art exhibitions and concerts, there is a nice café and restaurant, baby concerts every second Monday morning, and a brilliant and free family Sunday programme (10am-3pm) with music, dance and crafts.

10) Walking next to the Danube when it is frozen. It looks particularly spectacular from the Chain Bridge but also from the Margaret Island. If the river is not (too) frozen, then join a boat trip from Vigadó Tér.

by Melanie Smith

Everyone should try a Hungarian spa at least once. It really is a cultural experience quite different from anything you can find outside the region of Central and Eastern Europe. Budapest is known as the ’Spa City’ or ’Spa Capital’ because it has the highest number of thermal springs (118) within the city limits in the world. The word ‘spa’ in English conjures up images of relaxation, luxury and beauty treatments, but in Hungary this is misleading for most foreigners and the words ’thermal bath’ should be used instead, as the main function of so-called spas in Hungary has been to treat patients with long-term medical problems. Spas mean waters here – mineral waters, thermal waters, medical waters. Lots of research is done to determine which conditions and illnesses the waters are good for. However, in Budapest the baths are mainly recreational and most people only spend 2-3 hours in there. You get a 3 hour ticket automatically but can claim a refund if you stay for less time.

Although spas like Gellért and Széchenyi in Budapest have now been renovated, there was a time when the information provision and signage was so baffling that you might have problems a) knowing which ticket to buy, b) finding the baths! The changing rooms vary enormously and you may be offered the chance to pay extra for a ’luxury’ or cabin one. Sometimes, the procedure involves chasing around after a locker ’guardian’ who will eventually issue you with a locker and a number which you have to remember. However, once you eventually get in, the baths are truly beautiful in terms of architecture, and the warm waters are incredibly relaxing. The whole experience takes away all your aches and pains and can even feel meditative. There are also steam rooms and saunas, which are pretty basic but they do the job, You can pay extra for a short, brutal but effective Hungarian massage, or pay even more for a less authentic Thai or Swedish one (still cheaper than in most other countries though).
What is spa etiquette in Hungary, you may ask? Well, you are not forced to be naked like you are in Germany and Austria, but you might find yourself in a position where many of the local women or men ARE naked and entirely comfortable (and these are not the ’body beautifuls’ either – the majority of local visitors are over 60!). This is common in Gellért, Király, Lukács and Rudas, but women and men have separate sections or even different days (note: beware of the ‘men only’ nights if you are a straight man. They are sometimes more gay than advertised, and even my gay friends told me that they are quite full on!). This makes it difficult to enjoy the spa together as a couple. Széchenyi, on the other hand, is mixed and non-naked so it is the best bet for the modest and those who want to visit with husbands, children or guests (however children under 6 are not allowed because of the mineral content of the waters). If you forget your costume, they may offer you some kind of ’apron’ which does its best to protect your modesty, but fails miserably once you enter the water!

Don’t expect to find healthy, light, or organic food in the spas. Most locals will be tucking into deep fried lángos (a kind of savoury doughnut) washed down with a beer or an espresso and topped off with a cigarette. Medicine is curative rather than preventative here, so by the time elderly Hungarians get sent to the spas by their doctors, the damage is already done! However, if you were beginning to think that spas were for old folks and the medically challenged, think again. Once a month in the Rudas spa (Saturday nights) there is a Cinetrip party, where the whole spa is converted into a giant nightclub complete with DJs, bars, films and entertainment. Tickets need to be bought in advance from the Mercury theatre, or from the spa on the night, but it gets so busy it is better to buy in advance. I haven’t experienced this first hand, but my students and sister tell me it gets pretty wild and is mainly for the young and hedonistic! Some of the spas also open late at night until 10pm but remain disco free. The Rudas is sometimes open from 10pm until 3am at the weekends.

by Melanie Smith

Getting to know you…

When did you first visit Budapest?

I came first in 1990. I came as a tourist, I was on one of those Interrail Holidays. I was travelling around Europe so I had about two or three days. I never thought I’d end up living here at that time.

What did you know about the city before visiting it?

I was only nineteen then. I didn’t really know too much. I think I knew that it was a beautiful city, full of beautiful architecture. Not much else, apart from the communist, socialist history.

Since when have you been living in Budapest?

I’ve been here for five and a half years, although I did visit again a few times between my first visit and finally moving here.

Why did you decide move to Budapest?

I was in a long distance relationship with a Hungarian, so when I had the chance to go on sabbatical I decided to come to Budapest to “try out” the relationship and the city for six months and, well, never left. The Hungarian is now my husband.

What are you doing in Budapest?

I work at Corvinus University as a lecturer in Tourism management, which is what I was actually doing in London. So I more or less transferred my job to do the same here as I did in English. Except that it’s in a Hungarian university, which means getting used to a new system.

What did you experience in Budapest as a cultural shock?

Interestingly they started coming a bit later. The language is the biggest shock I would say. The pessimism is a bit difficult for somebody like me, I’m quite optimistic and outgoing. People don’t smile as much as they do in other places, I found that a bit alienating. Although it’s actually much better since I’ve had children and also since I’ve started learning Hungarian.

What do you like about Budapest?

Oh, lots of things! The first thing is the way the city looks, the architecture, the atmosphere. I went to Vienna a couple of weeks ago, and when I came back I felt how warm the atmosphere in Budapest is. Vienna is beautiful too, but it doesn’t have such a warm feel about it. I like the feeling of chaos too. It’s not too extreme, it’s just enough to feel liberating or bohemian. It’s really child friendly. I love the spas, the cafes and now the people too. The transport is really good, even if Hungarians always say it isn’t.

What do you do not like about Budapest?

I don’t like the racism and the intolerance. It’s a bit anti-semitic, homophobic and anti-roma. All that is really hard for me because London is so multi-cultural. And I don’t think it’s getting better, actually I think it’s getting worse with jobbik and the right wing. I also dislike the obsession with illness. Somehow many people here are hypochondriacs – they’ll even shout at you in the street if they don’t think your child is dressed warmly enough. I think it’s cultural – visitation to doctors here is higher than in the UK. Somehow there’s a lot of talk of death and disease, which can be a bit depressing.

What does Budapest have that your home land does not?

People are much nicer with children. If you take your kids to a café or a restaurant you’re made to feel very welcome. In London they’d make you feel unwelcome or even tell you to leave. It’s more compact – it’s very easy to get around. The weather of course is much better. Six months of sun is pretty good.

What are people living in Budapest like compared to your own nation? What is the difference between them?

In England it’s easier to make friends more quickly. At work places people will often go to the pub or meet for lunch and get to know each other quickly. Here’s there’s not so much of that. But when you make Hungarian friends, although it might take a year or two, it’s a much deeper relationship. I also think people are more generous here with paying for things. The English in comparison are quite tight fisted. Here there’s a generosity of spirit, as well as in terms of money, even though people don’t have a lot here. Although they’re not quite so optimistic and light hearted. I miss British humour. I like Hungarian humour but it’s a bit too dark. It’s if you’re in the right mood. I think it’s also because they had very different histories. There’s a lot more to smile about in the whole of British history. Hungarians had a difficult time. Although I think the time’s coming to break away from that.

Can you speak Hungarian?

It’s at quite a good domestic level – I can speak to my mother in law. It’s definitely helped my family relations. I can manage in ordinary situations like going to my son’s nursery or talking to the other women in the playground. It’s not too bad. I can sustain a conversation for about half an hour. Although if I have to use it at work it’s very limited. I can probably understand about 70% of most Hungarians so I can read women’s magazines and understand about 70% of it. I did evening classes, a summer school, private lessons and then I tried to speak to people I know. My husband wasn’t much help we always speak English. There was never any point in speaking Hungarian because his English was a bit too good. I’m still ahead of my 4 year old which is good. But he’s now quite good.

What/who is the most famous Hungarian person or thing in your country?

We were playing a game with my family in England last Christmas, and they kept bringing up people like Rubik and Biro who my husband didn’t really know. It’s funny how in England these are the people we immediately think of when Hungarians are mentioned. They’re not the first thing people would think of here. Then there are also people like Zsazsa Gábor and Tony Curtis, who people might not realize are actually Hungarians too.

What do you think Hungary and Budapest can profit of the EU-presidency project?

I find Hungary a bit too inward looking. There’s definitely a Hungarian way of doing things and sometimes I wouldn’t say it’s the best way. I’m hoping that the EU presidency can make Hungary a bit more outward looking. There’s a lot of envy here of other places, but then the good practice isn’t really brought to Hungary or applied here. A progressive move towards Europeanization, internationalization without losing what’s really great about Hungary and its local culture will be a positive thing. I think it should put Hungary on the map in terms of tourism a bit more.

Questions to help tourists:

In your opinion when is it worth visiting Budapest?

Although Christmas is very nice I would recommend between March and October. I think spring is the nicest time. People should know that it's really really hot in July, and might be too hot for British people, for example. I wouldn't recommend coming in winter unless you really like Christmas and Christmas markets, or if you like going to museums and galleries. I'm not saying don't come in December, that's a good month, but maybe January and February are best avoided.

For how long is it worth visiting the city?

There is enough going on in the winter, to make it worth a visit, like for example the spas and cafés. Maybe just for a long weekend though. In the summer I think you need about a week. If you're a repeat visitor, there's always more to discover. If you come for the festivals in the summer and you want to have a look around the city too, you'll definitely need longer.

Would you recommend booking accommodation in Buda or in Pest?

I'm very much a Pest person. I think Buda's a beautiful place to live but I have no desire to be stuck up on a hill. I don't drive and I like to use public transport so I really have to be on the Pest side of the river. The flats here are about half the price of those in Buda too. I can understand why people want to be in Buda, it has a lot going on, and you can see the Castle and visit Normafa, but it's not as easy to access the city centre, which is especially tricky for tourists. It's best if they plan their trips and work out how to get there beforehand, as getting around Buda can be quite confusing. If it's really hot I think the Buda hills are a great place to be, but otherwise most of the main attractions are either by the river or in Pest.

Which sights are not to be missed?

The baths! You have to try at least one. Széchényi's my favourite, but Gellért is nice too. Everybody should also see the castle area because that's particularly beautiful, as are the views from up there. I like the area around Hösök tere and Andrássy út of course. If you've got kids the Város Liget is the best place because of the play house, the circus and the zoo. Boat trips along the Danube are also great. And as you're walking around the city, try to fit in at least some of the cafés. If people come for a short time I recommend getting on the hop on hop off sightseeing bus, and then you know what's there and you can always 'hop off' if there's something you want to see.

Which are the hidden values of the city (which not many people know, although they should)?

The ruin pubs are very popular amongst the locals by now, although tourists might not necessarily know about them. Even though new ones are springing up all over the place, the old ones are still around, which is really nice. I really like the eighth district, the area around the university. The architecture is fantastic. It's a great place for walking.

What is an ideal Budapest weekend like for tourists?

Start with the hop on hop off – a ticket lasts for 24 hours. If you like walking, start somewhere like Hösök tere and wander along Andrássy, taking in some of the museums and galleries and the park. Visit a couple of cafés along the way and stop off at Liszt Ferenc tér for lunch. If you then wander over the river up to the castle you'll be able to enjoy a lot of the architecture and a nice panoramic views from the castle hill. Spend half a day in one of the baths for sure – just make sure you check individual schedules, sometimes men and women are separated, or it's men or women only day. You might be able to visit a concert too, for example at the Palace of Arts. This is a little bit out of the way, but don't be put off, you can get to it quite easily.

What do tourists have to avoid in Budapest and what do they have to be careful about?

The ticket inspectors on the metro, who just wait around for you to buy the wrong ticket. If in doubt about which ticket to buy, ask, or buy your ticket at the ticket office. I wouldn't say you have to worry too much about crime though – not more than in other places. Also, bear in mind that there's no smoking ban here, so some pubs might be a bit smoky!

Which places should tourists visit, if they have time to travel around in the neighbourhood of Budapest as well?

The Danube Bend and Szentendre are great, but I really like Vác, I think it's underrated. I really like going there for a day.

What is your favourite…

- place in Buda?

Normafa for walking, and the railway

- place in Pest?

The area around Hösök tere and Városliget

- coffee house in Budapest?

I go to Tranzit Art Café close to Kosztolányi Dezső tér in Bukarest utca a lot as they have a nice little childrens’ play area and a fabulous carrot cake! It also used to be a bus station so the architecture is very interesting. I also like Centrál Kávéház and Gerloczy at the moment. Many of the ones I used to love going to, like the Lukács and Müvész, have been modernized recently and I don't really like them any more, which is a shame.

- building, architectural piece of art?

My favourite type of architecture is the art nouveau, but I really like the building of the ING bank. It's a nice piece of modern architecture. Also the Gresham Palace and of course the Széchényi bath building, which you can enjoy while relaxing in the bath, even if it's a bit kitsch.

- Hungarian musician or band?

I like the Hungarian folk songs and nursery rhymes a lot. I'm trying to learn the words of some of them at the moment as my son is always singing them! I also think Ákos is quite good, and Cserháti Zsuzsa's music is really quite beautiful.

- statue in Budapest?

I like the statue of Nagy Imre standing on the bridge, between the Parliament and Szabadság tér.

- park in the city?

Margit Sziget.

- place for going out?

I like to go to Liszt Ferenc tér and just hang out around there. You can also find some nice places in the side streets around Szabadság tér.

- Hungarian personality?

I quite like Geszti Péter, although he's just on the X Factor at the moment, I also heard him speak at a creative industries conference and he always has very interesting things to say about art, architecture and creative industries. He is also the inspiration between the annual ARC billboard exhibition and competition.

- Budapest story?

I was doing a bit of translation recently about classical composers, and I was reading about Mahler and his funny antics here in Budapest which was quite interesting. I also learned that Liszt didn't really speak Hungarian, even though he's become very famous here.

Melanie from the UK

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Hidden Treasures of Budapest

There are a few places to which I like to take repeat visitors of Budapest who have seen all the main sites and attractions. Most of these are pretty well-known by local people but they would be considered to be fairly well ‘hidden’ for the majority of tourists.

Instead of the heavily visited and now expensive Liszt Ferenc Tér, I prefer to go to Raday Utca, especially as I work at the University nearby. This is a long attractive street of arty shops as well as cafés, bars and restaurants. The menus tend to be pretty cheap as many students also come here. The so-called ’ruin pubs’ (or rom kocsma) are also becoming legendary in Budapest. Many of these can be found in the old Jewish quarter in District VII, and they are bars or cafés which have developed in an ad hoc way in disused buildings and courtyards. There is music, dancing and sometimes film too, and the places are very atmospheric, bohemian and relaxed. Examples include Szimpla Kert (probably the best known even amongst tourists), the smaller but more intimate Mumus in Dob Utca, and Fogas Ház in Akácfa utca. The ship called the A38 on the Danube is also an atmospheric place for a drink, concerts, music and arts events. There is a changing programme which can be viewed on the website (http://www.a38.hu).

For a lovely walk outdoors by the river, the Kopaszi Gát is a newly regenerated area on the Buda side by the Lágymányosi Bridge. The whole area is landscaped in a very attractive way, there are pleasant walkways, paths for jogging and cycling, a couple of cafés with tasty menus, a childrens‘ playground and numerous sunbathing /or sledging spots for all weathers. It can get really busy here when the weather is good so it is hardly undiscovered, but it is still being developed so there is always likely to be something new.

Another walk which is very interesting for me is to go from Corvinus University at the end of Vaci Utca in Fővám Tér along the side of the Danube towards the Palace of Arts. There are a number of new developments springing up (a bit like the Docklands in London), including the creation of a complex which will house shops, restaurants and cultural institutions – the so-called „Covent Garden of Budapest“. There is also the Zwack Unicum Visitor Centre on the way.
One of my favourite alternative walks to the well-known Andrássy Avenue is the Városligeti Fasor parallel to Andrássy Avenue (near to M1 stop Kodály körönd or Bajza utca). It is a large avenue running towards the City Park or Város Liget and contains some of the most beautiful Art Nouveau and Fin de Siecle buildings in Budapest. Many of them are Embassies or Private Villas. Walking around the 8th and 9th Districts of Budapest, for example behind the National Museum is really fascinating as there a lots of hidden ‘gems’ of architecture, as well as cafés and bars. There are more and more vegetarian restaurants in this area which are hard to find elsewhere in Budapest. The Cökxpôn Ambient Cafe Theater Cultural Centre (Soroksári út 8-10) is a great place to chill out.

Finally, the Gozsdu Udvar between Király Utca and Dob Utca is becoming a really interesting place, as the dilapidated architecture and courtyards have been regenerated and now house some new shops and cafés. It is very atmopsheric for a wander or a visit to the weekend crafts market where there are lots of arty bits and pieces. There are also festivals sometimes, such as the Jewish Gastronomy Festival in November. specialty store, or Hungarian wine I hadn’t tasted before. I can only hope this enthusiasm is contagious.

Introduction

I am a 40 year old Lecturer in Tourism Management and I have lived in Budapest for five and a half years. I work at Corvinus University. I came here on a sabbatical for six months and I haven’t left since! My husband is Hungarian and we have two little boys aged four and one called Levi and Ferdi. I have always loved Budapest as it encapsulates everything that I find interesting and exciting about Europe – history, heritage, architecture, classical and folk music and dance, a passion for gastronomy and wines, and a strange and beautiful language. I worked hard to learn Hungarian but I am still not as good as I should be. As long as I am still one step ahead of my four year old, I will be happy!



Read Melanie's blog posts here >>>